Guda with Mukuzani (Saperavi, PDO) ★ 4.6
Our pick
Guda is piquant and moderately salty. Mukuzani PDO Saperavi is full-bodied with medium to firm tannin and medium to high acidity, so the salt and the fat of the paste soften the grip of the tannin.
Bottles to try:
Sulguni with Amber qvevri Khikhvi ★ 4.4
Our pick
Smoked sulguni is a little saltier than plain, with a smoke aroma. Amber Khikhvi from qvevri is full-bodied with medium tannin and medium to high acidity, with the weight to carry the smoke and the acidity to answer the salt.
Bottles to try:
Tushuri Guda with Amber qvevri Rkatsiteli ★ 4.4
Our pick
Tushuri Guda is dense, salty and piquant, with an umami depth. Amber Rkatsiteli from qvevri has medium to firm tannin and medium to high acidity: the grip stands up to the dense paste and the acidity freshens the salt.
Bottles to try:
Guda with Amber qvevri Kisi ★ 4.3
Our pick
Guda is lightly spicy, sour and moderately salty. Amber Kisi from qvevri is full-bodied with medium tannin and medium to high acidity, so the acidity meets the sour edge and the salt of the cheese takes the grip off the skins.
Bottles to try:
Sulguni with Dry white Mtsvane Kakhuri, alone or with Kisi ★ 4.3
Our pick
Fresh sulguni is juicy, milky and moderately salty, with layers that peel apart. These dry Mtsvane Kakhuri whites are light to medium in body with high acidity and no tannin, so the acidity lifts the milk fat and no amber grip competes.
Bottles to try:
Chogi with Amber qvevri Mtsvane Kakhuri ★ 4.2
Our pick
Chogi is butter-like, yellowish and piquant, with at least half fat in its dry matter. Amber Mtsvane Kakhuri from qvevri is full-bodied with medium tannin and medium to high acidity, enough lift to cut through the fat.
Bottles to try:
Georgian Cheese with Tsinandali (Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane Kakhuri, PDO) ★ 4.2
Our pick
Georgian Cheese is brined at least 60 days and is moderately salty, with a faint sour note and a lactic taste. Tsinandali PDO is dry and medium-bodied with high acidity and no tannin, so nothing turns bitter against the salt.
Bottles to try:
Sulguni with Dry qvevri Saperavi ★ 4.1
Our pick
Sulguni is dense, elastic and moderately salty; the dried type is air-dried for days or weeks after salting. These qvevri Saperavi are full-bodied with medium to firm tannin and medium acidity, and the salt of the cheese rounds off the tannin.
Bottles to try:
Georgian Cheese with Oak-aged dry Saperavi ★ 4.1
Our pick
Georgian Cheese is firm, brined at least 60 days and moderately salty. These oak-aged dry Saperavi are full-bodied with medium to firm tannin and medium to high acidity, and the salt of the cheese rounds off the tannin.
Bottles to try:
Tushuri Guda with Kindzmarauli (semi-sweet Saperavi, PDO) ★ 4.0
Our pick
Tushuri Guda is salty and piquant, with an umami depth. Kindzmarauli is semi-sweet Saperavi with medium to high acidity, so the sweetness sits against the salt and the acidity keeps the pair fresh.
Bottles to try:
Sulguni with Sparkling Mtsvane Kakhuri, tank method ★ 4.0
Our pick
Fresh sulguni is juicy, milky and moderately salty. This tank-method sparkling Mtsvane Kakhuri is light-bodied and dry, with high acidity, citrus, green apple and a crisp bead that cleans the milk fat.
Bottles to try:
Kalti with Dry Saperavi rose ★ 3.9
Our pick
Kalti is seldom sold: Tusheti shepherds make it in small batches for their own table. Where it is offered, its soft texture, distinct smell and almost spicy taste meet a dry Saperavi rose, medium-bodied with high acidity and no tannin.
Bottles to try: