Garrotxa with Corpinnat Brut Nature, Xarel·lo ★ 4.4
Our pick
Four years or more on the lees give these Xarel·lo-led Corpinnat Brut Nature wines a savoury, lees-rich depth that meets Garrotxa's buttery paste and damp-cellar rind, while high acidity and a fine bead refresh the goat's milk.
Bottles to try:
Garrotxa with Xarel·lo (DO Penedès) ★ 4.3
Our pick
Garrotxa is mild, milky and buttery under its grey mould. Penedès Xarel·lo made without new oak brings fennel, citrus and a saline edge with high acidity, which cuts through the firm paste and leaves the fresh goat's milk in front.
Bottles to try:
Garrotxa with Corpinnat white, Brut Nature to Brut, 18 to 50 months on lees ★ 4.3
Our pick
Dry white Corpinnat, aged 18 to 50 months on its lees, brings high acidity and a fine bead: the bubbles scrub Garrotxa's buttery paste from the palate and leave the mild, lactic goat's milk and its damp-cellar rind in front.
Bottles to try:
Mató with Muscat ancestral sparkling, off-dry ★ 4.2
Our pick
Mató is unsalted, milky and mild, and is eaten as a dessert with honey. This Muscat ancestral sparkling is off-dry at 6.5% alcohol, with white peach, lychee and a soft bubble, so it plays the part of the honey without overwhelming the curd.
Bottles to try:
Formatge serrat with Long-aged Corpinnat Brut Nature ★ 4.2
Our pick
Five years or more on the lees give these zero-dosage Corpinnat wines a savoury, autolytic depth that suits a mature pressed cheese, while the bone-dry palate, high acidity and fine bead cut the fat of a serrat.
Bottles to try:
Formatge serrat with Cava de Paraje Calificado ★ 4.2
Our pick
Five years or more on the lees give these single-vineyard Cavas a creamy, savoury depth that stands up to serrat's dense, fatty paste and peppery edge, and their high acidity and fine bead clean the palate between bites.
Bottles to try:
Garrotxa with White Cava, Brut and Brut Nature (Reserva and younger) ★ 4.2
Our pick
Dry white Cava, high in acidity and with a fine bead, scrubs Garrotxa's buttery paste from the palate, while its fresh fruit sits easily beside the mild goat's milk and the damp-cellar notes of the grey rind.
Bottles to try:
Formatge serrat with Sumoll, indigenous Penedès red ★ 4.1
Our pick
Serrat is pressed, firm and a little peppery. Sumoll is the Penedès native red: red cherry, wild herb and rose petal, medium-bodied with firm tannin and high acidity, enough structure to match the cheese's fat and spice.
Bottles to try:
Formatge serrat with Cava Gran Reserva, Brut Nature ★ 4.1
Our pick
Two years or more on the lees give Gran Reserva Cava toasty or dried-fruit notes and a rounder bead; that depth stands up to serrat's dense, fatty paste, and the dry palate and high acidity cut its peppery richness.
Bottles to try:
Garrotxa with Conca del Riu Anoia white sparkling, Brut Nature ★ 4.1
Our pick
Conca del Riu Anoia whites are bone dry, with high acidity and a saline, mineral edge after 18 months to seven years on the lees; the bubbles cut Garrotxa's buttery paste and the salt sets off the mild goat's milk.
Bottles to try:
Garrotxa with Lees-aged Xarel·lo with oak (DO Penedès) ★ 4.1
Our pick
Xarel·lo aged on its lees with some oak gains a creamy texture and yellow-apple fruit that meet Garrotxa's buttery paste, while the grape's high acidity and saline edge keep the goat's milk fresh and lift the grey rind.
Bottles to try:
Garrotxa with Barrel-fermented Chardonnay (DO Penedès) ★ 4.0
Our pick
Penedès Chardonnay fermented and aged in French oak brings hazelnut and a creamy, lees-rich texture that meet Garrotxa's buttery paste, while lemon and high acidity keep the firm goat's cheese and its grey rind fresh.
Bottles to try:
Garrotxa with Rosé Cava, Brut and Brut Nature ★ 4.0
Our pick
Dry rosé Cava brings red-berry fruit, high acidity and a fine bead: the bubbles lift Garrotxa's firm, buttery paste and the berry fruit plays against the lactic tang of the goat's milk.
Bottles to try:
Formatge serrat with Rosé Corpinnat, Brut Nature ★ 4.0
Our pick
Rosé Corpinnat, bone dry after two to three years on the lees, has the red-berry fruit and grip to meet serrat's fatty, slightly peppery paste, while high acidity and a fine bead keep each mouthful fresh.
Bottles to try:
Formatge serrat with Oak-aged Cabernet Sauvignon (DO Penedès) ★ 4.0
Our pick
Penedès Cabernet Sauvignon, full bodied and aged in oak, has firm tannin with cedar and dark fruit; serrat's fat and dense, eyeless paste soften the tannin, and its intense, peppery flavour holds up to the wine.
Bottles to try:
Formatge serrat with Merlot-led red aged in French oak (DO Penedès) ★ 4.0
Our pick
Merlot-led Penedès reds aged in French oak bring plum fruit, supple tannin and a savoury finish; serrat's fat rounds the tannin and its intense, slightly peppery flavour meets the wine's savoury side.
Bottles to try:
Formatge serrat with Cabernet Franc aged in French oak (DO Penedès) ★ 4.0
Our pick
Cabernet Franc from the Penedès, aged in French oak, joins high acidity to a herbal, savoury edge and fine to firm tannin; the acidity cuts serrat's fat and the herbs meet the cheese's intense, peppery flavour.
Bottles to try:
Mató with Semi-dry Cava ★ 3.9
Our pick
Unsalted mató invites sweetness, as in honey or jam. This semi-dry Cava has about 37 g/l residual sugar, with ripe pear, quince and a creamy mousse, so it supplies that sweetness while the bubbles lift the soft, granular curd.
Bottles to try: