Doña Blanca in Bierzo

Bodegas y Viñedos Mengoba ★ 4.7

Bordeaux-trained Grégory Pérez works 12 hectares from a cellar at San Juan de Carracedo, with Espanillo parcels above 600 metres and Godello and Mencía plots at Arganza.

Signature wines: Estaladiña, La Grande Cuvée, El Rebolón, Mencía de Espanillo, Mengoba Las Botas, Mengoba Godello Viejo

Bodegas y Viñedos Godelia ★ 4.4

Built in 2009 by the García Rodríguez family on the old N-VI at Pieros, drawing on about 50 hectares spread across several zones of the denomination.

Tasting: Enoturismo visits and tastings at the Pieros cellar, booked by telephone or email.

Signature wines: Godelia Godello, Godelia Mencía, Godelia Selección Mencía, Libamus, Godelia Extra Brut Gran Reserva

Bodegas Bernardo Álvarez ★ 4.1

Villadecanes bodega on Calle San Pedro bottling the Viña Migarrón and Campo Redondo ranges from Mencía, Godello and Doña Blanca.

Signature wines: Viña Migarrón Crianza, Campo Redondo Godello, Campo Redondo Tinto Roble, Viña Migarrón Rosado, Viña Migarrón Blanco

Bodegas Godelia ★ 4.6

Purpose-built visitor bodega at Pieros running two tiers of tasting, a Godello varietal session and a longer Mencía visit that starts in the Castro de la Ventosa vines.

Cantariña Vinos de Familia ★ 4.5

Numbered single-parcel wines from two family vineyards above Villafranca, restarted in 2015 with 900 bottles of Garnacha Tintorera.

Tip: The numbered bottlings are single parcels, so ask which number came off which slope. Volumes are small enough that not all eight are in stock.