Montasio with Ribolla Gialla from the Collio hills ★ 4.5
Qualigeo lists Collio Ribolla Gialla among the wines for Montasio. These skin-fermented Ribollas from the Collio hills bring tea-like tannin, dried apricot and acidity to meet the granular, crumbly paste of an aged wheel.
Bottles to try:
Montasio with Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso ★ 4.5
Qualigeo lists Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso with Montasio. Its dark fruit and brisk acidity cut through the butter-and-hay richness of a Mezzano or older wheel.
Bottles to try:
Montasio with Picolit (Colli Orientali del Friuli DOCG) ★ 4.4
Qualigeo names Colli Orientali Picolit among the wines for Montasio. Its honeyed sweetness plays against the salty, savoury paste of an aged Stagionato or Stravecchio, and high acidity keeps it from cloying.
Bottles to try:
Latteria with Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso ★ 4.3
Wikipedia's article on Friulian cuisine lists Refosco among the common reds drunk with frico, Montasio and aged latteria. Its acidity and tannin bite into a firm, savoury wheel.
Bottles to try:
Montasio with Colli Orientali Merlot ★ 4.2
Wikipedia's article on Friulian cuisine lists Merlot, Refosco and Cabernet among the common reds drunk with frico, Montasio and aged latteria. Merlot's dark plum and firm, fine tannin frame the savoury, granular paste of a long-aged wheel.
Bottles to try:
Asìno with Pinot Bianco ★ 4.2
Our pick
Turismo FVG calls Asìno savoury and piquant in both its soft fresh and its aged version. A steel-raised Pinot Bianco with apple, almond and high acidity cleans the salt and adds no oak or tannin to the heat.
Bottles to try:
Latteria with Friulano ★ 4.1
Our pick
A young latteria is sweet, with a mild, milky paste, and a dry Friulano with high acidity and its almond note sits beside it without covering it. Wikipedia's article on Friulian cuisine lists fresh cheeses among what the region's white wines are drunk with.
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Our pick
Formaggio salato is soft and made savoury by brine. A Carso Terrano, medium-bodied with racy acidity, dark berry fruit and only medium tannin, cuts the salt and refreshes the palate between bites.
Bottles to try:
Latteria with Friulian Merlot and Merlot-Cabernet reds ★ 4.1
Our pick
Aged latteria, the 6 to 12 month wheels that are grated or fried into frico, has a compact paste with few, small eyes. A Merlot or Merlot and Cabernet red brings dark fruit and tannin to meet it, and the fat of the paste softens the wine's grip.
Bottles to try:
Our pick
A well-aged malga wheel has a unique, intense flavour and a firm but soft paste. Pignolo, full-bodied with firm tannin after long ageing in wood, has the weight to match it, and the cheese's fat softens the grip.
Bottles to try:
Asìno with Friuli Pinot Grigio ★ 4.1
Our pick
Asìno is savoury and piquant in its soft fresh and its aged versions. A dry Friulian Pinot Grigio, with pear or apple, almond and high acidity, cleans the salt and has the body to carry the piquancy.
Bottles to try:
Montasio with Friulian sparkling wine ★ 4.0
Our pick
Qualigeo lists Prosecco DOP among the wines for Montasio. A dry, light Friulian spumante brings the same fresh acidity and fine bubbles, cleaning the palate between milky, yoghurty bites of young Fresco.
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Our pick
A well-aged malga wheel has a unique, intense flavour after up to a year of ageing. Schioppettino's black pepper and bright acidity answer that intensity, and its medium body leaves the cheese in front.
Bottles to try:
Smoked ricotta (scuete fumade) with Sweet Verduzzo Friulano (Ramandolo and its neighbours) ★ 4.0
Our pick
The honey and dried-apricot sweetness of a sweet Verduzzo Friulano, the grape of Ramandolo, softens the smoke and salt of a fresh scuete fumade, while its acidity keeps the pairing from cloying.
Bottles to try:
Formaggio di malga with Full-bodied Friulano raised in wood ★ 4.0
Our pick
A well-aged malga wheel has a unique, intense flavour. A full-bodied Friulano raised on its lees, partly or wholly in wood, has the breadth to meet it, and its high acidity and almond note cut the firm paste.
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Our pick
Scuete fumade is a compact white whey cheese with a smoke note from juniper or beech. A dry Friulian Sauvignon with elderflower and high acidity lifts the mild paste, and its aromatic edge stands up to the smoke.
Bottles to try:
Latteria with Friuli Chardonnay ★ 4.0
Our pick
Latteria has a compact, straw-coloured paste whose eyes shrink as it ages. A dry Friulian Chardonnay with yellow apple and stone fruit has the breadth for a wheel of some months, and its high acidity cuts the fat.
Bottles to try:
Formadi frant with Ribolla Gialla (skin contact) ★ 3.9
Our pick
Formadi frant is soft and savoury, with a piquancy that varies from one cheese to the next. A skin-fermented Ribolla's tannic grip and acidity stand up to that piquancy without being flattened.
Bottles to try:
Our pick
Formaggio salato is soft and made savoury by brine, so it wants a white with acidity. A dry Malvasia Istriana has stone fruit, a saline edge and enough freshness to balance the salt.
Bottles to try:
Formadi frant with Skin-fermented whites (Vitovska, Malvasia, Friulano and blends) ★ 3.9
Our pick
Formadi frant is soft and savoury, with cream in the paste and a piquancy that varies from one cheese to the next. A white fermented on its skins for weeks or months has the tannic grip and acidity to stand up to it.
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