Pélardon with Picpoul de Pinet ★ 4.6
Our pick
accords-mets-vins.fr suggests Picpoul de Pinet for a more aged Pélardon, saying its saline finish picks up the cheese's lactic, slightly hazelnut notes. Raised in tank with no oak, Picpoul is dry and high in acidity, so it cleans the paste without covering the goat's milk.
Bottles to try:
Roquefort with Muscat de Frontignan or Muscat de Lunel (vin doux naturel) ★ 4.5
Our pick
The sweetness and grapey perfume of a Muscat vin doux naturel from Frontignan or Lunel set off Roquefort's salt and sharp blue, the sugar rounding the bite of the mould. accords-mets-vins.fr also points to sweet Languedoc-Roussillon wines with this cheese.
Pérail with Limoux white ★ 4.3
Our pick
INAO describes Pérail as milky, with notes of sheep's wool, under a slightly felted rind over a creamy paste. A Limoux white, fermented or raised in oak in the cool upper Aude, has the roundness to match that creaminess and the acidity to lift it.
Bottles to try:
Pélardon with Supple Languedoc red, unoaked or in old wood ★ 4.2
Our pick
accords-mets-vins.fr advises light, low-tannin reds for Pélardon, such as a young Saint-Chinian or a lightly extracted Faugères, and warns that a powerful or oaky red crushes it. A medium-bodied red raised mostly in concrete or old wood, with supple tannin, keeps the goat's milk in view.
Bottles to try:
Our pick
Bleu des Causses is intense and creamy. A dry Crémant de Limoux, made sparkling in bottle from Chardonnay and Chenin with a little Mauzac or Pinot Noir, brings apple and citrus, fine bubbles and high acidity that cut the cream and reset the palate between bites.
Bottles to try:
Pélardon with Dry Languedoc rosé ★ 4.2
Our pick
A young Pélardon is lactic and lightly hazelnut. A dry rosé from stainless steel, with no oak, has the acidity to freshen the palate and enough red-fruit body that the goat cheese is not left tasting chalky.
Bottles to try:
Pélardon with Unoaked Languedoc white blend ★ 4.2
Our pick
Pélardon is frank and slightly spicy. A Languedoc white blend kept in tank or concrete with no oak, built on grapes such as Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Vermentino or Viognier, gives clean acidity and peach or pear fruit that do not cover the goat's milk.
Bottles to try:
Pérail with Languedoc white blend raised in oak ★ 4.2
Our pick
Pérail is milky and sweet, with a melting, creamy paste under a felted rind. A southern white blend fermented or raised wholly or partly in barrel has the roundness to match the paste, and a saline, mineral finish that keeps each bite fresh.
Bottles to try:
Roquefort with Terrasses du Larzac red ★ 4.1
Our pick
accords-mets-vins.fr says Roquefort tolerates a red where many cow's milk cheeses turn bitter with tannin. A medium-bodied Terrasses du Larzac red raised in large or used wood, with cherry or plum fruit, garrigue and fine tannin, has the grip to stand up to the salt.
Bottles to try:
Pélardon with Used-oak Languedoc white blend ★ 4.1
Our pick
A Pélardon left to ripen turns firmer and drier. A Languedoc white blend raised wholly or partly in used barriques, demi-muids or foudres has the breadth to hold it, and old wood adds texture without a vanilla layer over the goat's milk.
Bottles to try:
Pélardon with Hérault white blend with Terret Blanc ★ 4.0
Our pick
Pélardon turns firmer and brittle as it ripens, and a longer-aged one needs a white with more breadth. A dry Hérault white built on Terret Blanc and raised in old oak brings apricot, almond and a saline lift, giving weight without sweetness or vanilla.
Bottles to try:
Pérail with Blanquette de Limoux ★ 4.0
Our pick
Blanquette de Limoux is built mostly on Mauzac and made sparkling in bottle. It is dry and sharp, with green apple and lemon zest, and its fine bubbles and acidity refresh the palate between bites of mild, creamy Pérail.
Bottles to try: