A guide to Gouveio worth seeking out, by region. We list the estates, how each region expresses the grape, and the bottles that show it best.

Gouveio in Alentejo

Carmim ★ 4.3

DOC Alentejo (Reguengos sub-region)Trincadeira, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Antao Vaz, Roupeiro, Arinto, Gouveio3000 haFounded 1971CARMIM Cooperativa Agricola de Reguengos de MonsarazReguengos

Reguengos de Monsaraz grower cooperative founded in 1971, whose members farm the vineyards behind its DOC Reguengos range, poured at a tasting shop in town.

Tasting: Seven booked tasting flights at the Loja Espaco CARMIM in central Reguengos de Monsaraz, Monday to Saturday, one of which pairs the tasting with a winery visit.

Signature wines: reguengos-doc-tinto, reguengos-doc-branco, reguengos-selecao-doc-tinto, reguengos-reserva-dos-socios-tinto, reguengos-garrafeira-dos-socios-tinto

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Gouveio in Douro Valley

Crasto Douro Branco ★ 4.1

Douro DOCRabigato, Viosinho, GouveioEUR 8-11 retail

A crisp, citrus-and-stone-fruit Douro white from indigenous high-elevation grapes. Fresh, mineral and a fine demonstration that the valley's whites deserve attention, all for well under fifteen euros.

Tip: Serve well chilled with grilled fish; Douro whites are an under-the-radar value category compared with the famous reds.

Altano Douro Branco ★ 3.9

Douro DOCViosinho, Gouveio, RabigatoEUR 7-9 retail

The white sibling of Symington's Altano range, a fresh, citrus-driven Douro white from indigenous grapes. Clean, gently aromatic and an easy everyday value bottle under ten euros.

Tip: Serve very cold as an aperitif or with shellfish; it is one of the cheapest ways to taste the Douro's native white grapes.

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Gouveio in Dão

Quinta dos Roques ★ 4.8

DOC DãoTouriga Nacional, Jaen, Alfrocheiro, Tinto Cão, Tinta Roriz, Encruzado, Malvasia Fina, Bical, Cerceal, Gouveio35 haTerras de Azurara

Family estate at Abrunhosa do Mato with 35 hectares of vines, three quarters red. Began bottling varietal reds in 1996 and a barrel-fermented Encruzado in 1998.

Tasting: Cellar and vineyard visits Monday to Friday 10:00 to 17:30 by prior booking, with tastings of two to four whites and three to five reds, and meals in the tasting room for groups of 10 or more.

Signature wines: Quinta dos Roques Encruzado, Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional, Quinta dos Roques Garrafeira

Quinta das Queimas ★ 4.4

DOC DãoEncruzado, Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Bical, Cerceal, Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Tinta Roriz, AlfrocheiroTondela

A Tondela estate whose white comes from an interplanted old vineyard at Quinta do Laranjal, with Encruzado, Malvasia, Gouveio, Bical and Cerceal mixed in the rows rather than blocked out.

Why locals love it: A Tondela estate on the western rim that most visitors drive past on the way to the Nelas cluster, with an interplanted white vineyard worth the detour.

Tip: Ask to see the Laranjal plot rather than just taste from it; the interplanting is the whole argument for the wine.

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