Anjou AOC, Anjou-Villages AOC, Coteaux du Layon AOC, Savennieres AOCChenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc25 haFounded 1890Ogereau family (Vincent and Emmanuel Ogereau)Winemaker Emmanuel OgereauBiodynamic PracticingECOCERTCoteaux du Layon
Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay five-generation family estate of 25 hectares biodynamic (Biodyvin) and organic (Ecocert), with parcels in Anjou, Coteaux du Layon and Savennieres.
Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment at the Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay cellar
Signature wines: ogereau-clos-le-grand-beaupreau, ogereau-cote-de-la-houssaye, ogereau-coteaux-du-layon-saint-lambert
Tip: Clos le Grand Beaupreau (Savennieres) and Cote de la Houssaye (Anjou-Villages) are the high-end parcels worth seeking.
Vin de FranceChenin Blanc4 haFounded 2000Stephane BernaudeauWinemaker Stephane BernaudeauBiodynamic PracticingORGANIC CERTIFIEDCoteaux du Layon
Anjou natural-wine cult: four hectares of Chenin Blanc parcels around Martigne-Briand farmed organically and biodynamically, vinified with zero intervention as Vin de France.
Tasting: No public visits. Allocation only.
Signature wines: bernaudeau-les-nourrissons, bernaudeau-les-terres-blanches, bernaudeau-les-ongles
Tip: Stephane trained with Mark Angeli; Les Nourrissons (centenarian Chenin on schist) is the cult bottle.
Saumur-Champigny AOC, Saumur AOCCabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc10 haFounded 1664Bouygues family (Martin and Olivier Bouygues, since 2017)ORGANIC CERTIFIEDSaumur-Champigny
Saumur-Champigny's grand cru: the Foucault brothers' 10 hectares of Cabernet Franc and old-vine Chenin at Chace, sold to the Bouygues family in 2017 after eight family generations.
Tasting: No public visits. Wines on strict allocation through importers.
Signature wines: clos-rougeard-le-bourg, clos-rougeard-les-poyeux, clos-rougeard-le-clos
Tip: Le Bourg from old vines is the appellation's reference grand-cru-class bottle; vintages 2005, 2009 and 2010 are the modern benchmarks.
Saumur-Champigny AOC, Saumur AOC, Coteaux de Saumur AOCCabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc18.5 haFounded 1840Vatan family (Philippe and Agathe Vatan)Winemaker Philippe VatanORGANIC CERTIFIEDSaumur-Champigny
Dampierre-sur-Loire Saumur-Champigny estate of 18.5 hectares, certified organic since 2007, with cellars dug into the tuffeau cliffs above the Loire.
Tasting: Visits and tastings at the troglodyte cellars by appointment
Signature wines: hureau-fevettes, hureau-lisagathe, hureau-tuffe
Tip: Lisagathe, from the two best old-vine parcels, is the long-ageing flagship; book the troglodyte cellar visit.
Saumur-Champigny AOC, Saumur AOCCabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc28 haFounded 1850Thierry and Marie GermainWinemaker Thierry GermainDemeter CertifiedDEMETERSaumur-Champigny
Varrains domaine taken over by Thierry Germain in 1991, 28 hectares biodynamic, trained by the Foucaults of Clos Rougeard.
Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment in Varrains
Signature wines: roches-neuves-cuvee-domaine, roches-neuves-clos-de-lechelier, roches-neuves-franc-de-pied
Tip: The Franc de Pied cuvee from ungrafted vines is the cellar-door rarity; the Cuvee Domaine is the textbook entry point.
Muscadet Sevre et Maine AOC, Vin de FranceMelon de Bourgogne, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay23 haFounded 1972Fred and Claire Niger (since 2010)Winemaker Fred NigerDemeter CertifiedDEMETERMuscadet Sevre et Maine
Le Landreau Muscadet pioneer: Guy Bossard converted to organic in 1975 and Demeter biodynamic in 1998; Fred and Claire Niger took over in 2010 and continue the legacy.
Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment in Le Landreau
Signature wines: ecu-granite, ecu-orthogneiss, ecu-gneiss
Tip: Granite, Orthogneiss and Gneiss are the three soil-cuvee bottlings that mapped Muscadet's terroir before Cru Communals existed.