Beaulieu-sur-Layon family estate of 53 hectares across Coteaux du Layon, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru and Savennieres, with the Les Rouannieres moelleux as the flagship.
Signature wines: pierre-bise-les-rouannieres, pierre-bise-quarts-de-chaume, pierre-bise-clos-de-coulaine
Tip: Les Rouannieres is the estate's flagship Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu cuvée from the south-facing schist slopes above the Layon tributary.
Address: 1 impasse du Chanoine de Douves, 49750 Beaulieu-sur-Layon, France, Loire Valley
Chaudefonds-sur-Layon estate centred on the schist-and-volcanic Prince site, with dry Chenin and old-vine Coteaux du Layon plus Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru.
Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment at the Prince cellar
Signature wines: baudouin-anjou-le-cornillard, baudouin-coteaux-du-layon, baudouin-quarts-de-chaume
Tip: Patrick was one of the first growers to push Anjou's dry Chenin into grand-cru territory; the Le Cornillard parcel is the reference.
Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay five-generation family estate of 25 hectares biodynamic (Biodyvin) and organic (Ecocert), with parcels in Anjou, Coteaux du Layon and Savennieres.
Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment at the Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay cellar
Signature wines: ogereau-clos-le-grand-beaupreau, ogereau-cote-de-la-houssaye, ogereau-coteaux-du-layon-saint-lambert
Tip: Clos le Grand Beaupreau (Savennieres) and Cote de la Houssaye (Anjou-Villages) are the high-end parcels worth seeking.
Anjou natural-wine cult: four hectares of Chenin Blanc parcels around Martigne-Briand farmed organically and biodynamically, vinified with zero intervention as Vin de France.
Tasting: No public visits. Allocation only.
Signature wines: bernaudeau-les-nourrissons, bernaudeau-les-terres-blanches, bernaudeau-les-ongles
Tip: Stephane trained with Mark Angeli; Les Nourrissons (centenarian Chenin on schist) is the cult bottle.
Chaudefonds-sur-Layon estate centred on the schist-and-volcanic Prince site, with dry Chenin and old-vine Coteaux du Layon plus Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru.
Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment at the Prince cellar
Signature wines: baudouin-anjou-le-cornillard, baudouin-coteaux-du-layon, baudouin-quarts-de-chaume
Tip: Patrick was one of the first growers to push Anjou's dry Chenin into grand-cru territory; the Le Cornillard parcel is the reference.
Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay five-generation family estate of 25 hectares biodynamic (Biodyvin) and organic (Ecocert), with parcels in Anjou, Coteaux du Layon and Savennieres.
Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment at the Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay cellar
Signature wines: ogereau-clos-le-grand-beaupreau, ogereau-cote-de-la-houssaye, ogereau-coteaux-du-layon-saint-lambert
Tip: Clos le Grand Beaupreau (Savennieres) and Cote de la Houssaye (Anjou-Villages) are the high-end parcels worth seeking.
Anjou natural-wine cult: four hectares of Chenin Blanc parcels around Martigne-Briand farmed organically and biodynamically, vinified with zero intervention as Vin de France.
Tasting: No public visits. Allocation only.
Signature wines: bernaudeau-les-nourrissons, bernaudeau-les-terres-blanches, bernaudeau-les-ongles
Tip: Stephane trained with Mark Angeli; Les Nourrissons (centenarian Chenin on schist) is the cult bottle.
Saumur-Champigny's grand cru: the Foucault brothers' 10 hectares of Cabernet Franc and old-vine Chenin at Chace, sold to the Bouygues family in 2017 after eight family generations.
Tasting: No public visits. Wines on strict allocation through importers.
Signature wines: clos-rougeard-le-bourg, clos-rougeard-les-poyeux, clos-rougeard-le-clos
Tip: Le Bourg from old vines is the appellation's reference grand-cru-class bottle; vintages 2005, 2009 and 2010 are the modern benchmarks.
Dampierre-sur-Loire Saumur-Champigny estate of 18.5 hectares, certified organic since 2007, with cellars dug into the tuffeau cliffs above the Loire.
Tasting: Visits and tastings at the troglodyte cellars by appointment
Signature wines: hureau-fevettes, hureau-lisagathe, hureau-tuffe
Tip: Lisagathe, from the two best old-vine parcels, is the long-ageing flagship; book the troglodyte cellar visit.
Varrains domaine taken over by Thierry Germain in 1991, 28 hectares biodynamic, trained by the Foucaults of Clos Rougeard.
Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment in Varrains
Signature wines: roches-neuves-cuvee-domaine, roches-neuves-clos-de-lechelier, roches-neuves-franc-de-pied
Tip: The Franc de Pied cuvee from ungrafted vines is the cellar-door rarity; the Cuvee Domaine is the textbook entry point.
