Wine in Romans d'Isonzo, Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Vie di Romans ★ 4.8

Gianfranco Gallo took over the family Isonzo plain cellar in 1978 and built Vie di Romans into the appellation's reference point. The 60 hectares on the alluvial gravel plain south of Cormons feed single-parcel Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Friulano with very low yields and lees-driven elevage. Vieris Sauvignon and Dessimis Pinot Grigio are the cellar's most-cited bottlings.

Tasting: Cellar visit at Vie di Romans by appointment with a vineyard walk through the river-shaped gravel parcels of the Isonzo plain and a flight of the Vieris Sauvignon, Dis Cumieris Friulano, Dessimis Pinot Grigio and Ciampagnis Chardonnay. Reservation required.

Signature wines: vie-di-romans-vieris, vie-di-romans-dis-cumieris, vie-di-romans-dessimis, vie-di-romans-ciampagnis, vie-di-romans-flors-di-uis

Tip: The Isonzo plain's gravel parcels produce ripe, concentrated whites unlike the more aromatic Collio expressions; book a comparative tasting with a Collio Sauvignon nearby.

Lis Neris ★ 4.7

Lis Neris has been in the Pecorari family since 1879, and Alvaro Pecorari has run the modern operation since the 1980s. The 75 hectares on Isonzo gravel feed Gris Pinot Grigio and Picol Sauvignon (the cellar's two single-parcel anchors), Confini (the cellar's whole-Isonzo blend) and Tal Lùc (a small-production late-harvest Verduzzo and Riesling blend).

Tasting: Cellar visit at San Lorenzo Isontino by appointment with a vineyard walk through the Lis Neris Isonzo parcels and a flight of the Gris Pinot Grigio, Picol Sauvignon, Confini and Tal Lùc late-harvest. Reservation required.

Signature wines: lis-neris-gris, lis-neris-picol, lis-neris-confini, lis-neris-tal-luc

Tip: Gris Pinot Grigio is one of Italy's most-cited Pinot Grigio bottlings; pair it with a salt-cured San Daniele prosciutto for the classic Friulian table.

Pierpaolo Pecorari ★ 4.6

Pierpaolo Pecorari built the cellar at San Lorenzo Isontino from 1974 onward, working the Isonzo gravel parcels in the DOC. Son Alessandro Pecorari now works alongside him.

Tasting: Cellar visit at San Lorenzo Isontino by appointment with a vineyard walk through the Isonzo gravel parcels and a flight of the single-parcel Pinot Grigio, Friulano, Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Reservation required.

Signature wines: pierpaolo-pecorari-altis-sauvignon, pierpaolo-pecorari-olivers-chardonnay, pierpaolo-pecorari-pinot-grigio, pierpaolo-pecorari-kolaus

Tip: The Altis Sauvignon is the cellar's lifted, aromatic flagship; the Pinot Grigio holds its own in any Friuli Isonzo lineup.

Ronco del Gelso ★ 4.6

Giorgio Badin built Ronco del Gelso from 1985 onward at the boundary of Cormons and the Isonzo plain. The 23 hectares on river-shaped gravel feed single-parcel bottlings of Pinot Grigio (Sot lis Rivis), Friulano (Toc Bas) and a rare Friulian Riesling Renano (Latimis). The cellar has been organic for over a decade.

Tasting: Cellar visit at Cormons by appointment with a vineyard walk through the Isonzo parcels and a flight of the Pinot Grigio Sot lis Rivis, Friulano Toc Bas and the Riesling Renano Latimis. Reservation required.

Signature wines: ronco-del-gelso-pinot-grigio-sot-lis-rivis, ronco-del-gelso-friulano-toc-bas, ronco-del-gelso-riesling-latimis

Tip: The Riesling Renano Latimis is a rare Friulian dry Riesling; book a tasting against the Pinot Grigio Sot lis Rivis for an unusual Isonzo white flight.

Puiatti ★ 4.5

Vittorio Puiatti founded the cellar in 1967 at Romans d'Isonzo, working alongside Mario Schiopetto in the modern Friulian whites revolution.

Tasting: Cellar visit at Romans d'Isonzo by appointment with a vineyard walk through the Puiatti parcels and a flight of the Pinot Grigio, Friulano and Archetipi Riserva. The cellar's traditional-method sparkling programme is among the appellation's references.

Signature wines: puiatti-pinot-grigio, puiatti-friulano, puiatti-archetipi

Tip: The Pinot Grigio is one of Friuli's most-distributed whites; book the Archetipi Riserva tasting for the cellar's library style.

Scolaris ★ 4.3

Scolaris was founded in 1923 by the Scolaris family at San Lorenzo Isontino, in the Friuli Isonzo DOC. Andrea Scolaris runs the modern operation.

Tasting: Cellar visit at San Lorenzo Isontino by appointment with a vineyard walk through the Isonzo parcels and a flight of the Pinot Grigio, Friulano and Sauvignon.

Signature wines: scolaris-pinot-grigio, scolaris-friulano, scolaris-sauvignon

Tip: Book a comparative Pinot Grigio tasting against a Collio version nearby; the Isonzo gravels give a different mid-palate weight than the Collio ponca.

Puiatti Ribolla traditional-method tasting room ★ 4.4

Puiatti tasting room at Romans d'Isonzo with a Ribolla Gialla still-and-sparkling flight plus the Friuli Isonzo whites. Reservation required.

The list: Puiatti tasting room at Romans d'Isonzo, pouring Ribolla Gialla in still and traditional-method sparkling expressions plus the Friuli Isonzo Friulano and Pinot Grigio.

Tip: Puiatti's traditional-method Ribolla Gialla sparkling is a Friuli specialty; ask the cellar to pour it alongside the still Ribolla for a back-to-back read.

Lis Neris ★ 4.5

Lis Neris at San Lorenzo Isontino farms the Friuli Isonzo gravel terraces organically. The Pecorari family cellar runs Picol Sauvignon, Gris Pinot Grigio, Jurosa Chardonnay and the Lis flagship across the Isonzo river-shaped gravel terraces.

Tip: The Picol Sauvignon and Gris Pinot Grigio pour side-by-side as the cellar contrast; ask for the Jurosa Chardonnay if it is open as the oak-aged comparison.