Cheese · Istria
Also labelled Istarski ovčji sir
A hard, pressed sheep's milk cheese from Istria, Croatia (made by individual dairies; no defined area).
A hard, full-fat sheep's-milk cheese made by individual Istrian dairies; it has no protected name. Agrolaguna's Špin dairy, in the Stancija Špin complex near Tar, makes only hard cheeses and lists its sheep's cheese among them. Vesna Loborika ripens its version for 3 months and calls it a traditional Istrian product. Sirana Zlata in Čepić polje makes it from Istrian sheep's milk to a traditional recipe. Vesna also sells Shtuffo, a sheep's cheese with black truffle. Vesna says that in Istria it is eaten with pršut and is an essential starter at weddings, holidays and other celebrations.
Made in: Istria, Croatia (made by individual dairies; no defined area)
Slightly more intense than the same dairy's cow's cheese. Špin says the usual piquancy of sheep's milk is tamed so the cheese stays mild and milky, with an initial sharpness in the mouth, sheep's milk at the centre and fresh grass and herbs toward the rind, and sage and thyme for practised tasters. The texture is crumblier than the cow's cheese and stays grainy in the mouth instead of turning creamy.
Wine and cheese
Teran is dry and high in acidity with low to medium tannin, and that acidity cuts the fat of a crumbly, grainy sheep's cheese while its fruit meets the herbal notes. Vesna Loborika's product page recommends Teran with its sheep's cheese, and Špin a rustic red.
A hard, full-fat sheep's cheese, grainy with an initial sharpness and herbal notes, is a starter at Istrian celebrations. A dry Malvazija sparkling wine cuts the fat with acidity and bubbles and refreshes the palate.
Full-bodied, rounder Malvazija has the weight and texture a hard sheep's cheese needs, where a light, fresh white would be overpowered. Its ripe fruit meets the grass and herb notes toward the rind, and its acidity still cuts the fat of the grainy paste.
Skin-contact Malvazija is full-bodied, with medium acidity and some grip from the skins. That savoury, textured weight suits a grainy, hard sheep's cheese with herbal notes toward the rind, which would overpower a light, fresh white.
Reserve and longer-aged Teran is full-bodied with firm tannin and Teran's high acidity. A hard, full-fat sheep's cheese has the fat to soften that tannin and a grainy texture that stands up to it, while the acidity cuts through the richness.
Istrian Merlot is soft, with medium tannin and acidity and ripe fruit. Its gentle structure suits a hard sheep's cheese that its makers keep mild and milky, where a firmer red would cover the sheep's milk and herb notes.
The grapes behind these winesMalvazija IstarskaTeranMerlot
From the source
Family dairy in Loborika that began in 1985, when the family's daughter was given a goat, with a shop and bistro-pizzeria on site and shops in Pula. Goat, sheep, cow and mixed-milk cheeses; the dairy says its Pegula took second place at the World Championship Cheese Contest in Wisconsin in 2022.
Small dairy below Učka in Čepić polje making cow's and sheep's cheeses, škripavac, grating cheese, truffle cheese and skuta. Cheese is sold and tasted at the dairy and sold at the Pula main market.
Agrolaguna's tasting room and shop in Poreč, stocking the Špin cheeses made near Tar alongside the group's Festigia and Vina Laguna wines and Ol Istria olive oils. Private events with tastings are arranged by email or phone.
Vesna Loborika's gourmet shop in the Monvidal district of Pula, set up so customers can shop in the afternoon. It sells the dairy's cheeses with other chosen local Istrian products and has customer parking.
Vesna Loborika's shop at the Pula market, at Narodni trg 9 on the dairy's shops page.
Sirana Zlata's stall at Pula's main market. The Kršan tourist board lists hours of 08:00 to 14:00, closed Sunday.
Guided farm tour and tasting of the farm's goat cheeses, fresh to aged, each with a note from the cheesemaker, with a glass of local wine, homemade bread and sides from the garden.
Guided walk with a farmer through the farm, gardens, stables and dairy, meeting the milking herd, ending with a tasting snack in the farm shop. Suitable for all ages.
Walk 200 goats out to graze with an experienced shepherd, hear how rotational grazing shapes the land, the milk and the cheese, then taste cheeses on the farm terrace.
Hands-on class with the farm kitchen team using garden and farm ingredients, with a garden walk and welcome wine, ending in a shared meal at one table. Recipes to take home. The page says booking is opening soon and dates are not set.
Pula's central market at Narodni trg, where Vesna Loborika has a shop and Sirana Zlata a stall selling their cheeses.
No. It is a traditional cheese made by individual Istrian dairies and has no protected designation.
Vesna Loborika gives 3 months on its product page. The Špin and Sirana Zlata pages do not state an ageing time.
Vesna says it goes with pršut and Teran. Sirana Zlata says its cheeses are traditionally eaten with red wine. Špin suggests peperoncino marmalade or honey and a rustic red, naming Vina Laguna Terra Rossa.
Same cheeseboard
Plan the trip
Tastings and tours where it is made, and somewhere to stay.
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Sources: agrolaguna.hr, vesna.hr. The drawing is made from the cheese's recorded shape, rind and paste, not a photograph.
