The local cheeses of Istria with the local wines that suit them, and why they work.
The cheeses of Istria with the wines made beside them. Pairings marked as a local tradition are the ones a regional source names; the rest are our own picks, and say so.
Teran is dry and high in acidity with low to medium tannin, and that acidity cuts the fat of a crumbly, grainy sheep's cheese while its fruit meets the herbal notes. Vesna Loborika's product page recommends Teran with its sheep's cheese, and Špin a rustic red.
Bottles to try:
A hard, full-fat sheep's cheese, grainy with an initial sharpness and herbal notes, is a starter at Istrian celebrations. A dry Malvazija sparkling wine cuts the fat with acidity and bubbles and refreshes the palate.
Bottles to try:
Skuta is a fresh, mild cheese that Istrian dairies use from starters to desserts. A young, unoaked Malvazija, medium-bodied with high acidity, is a clean counterpoint to the soft, milky curd and keeps a skuta starter light.
Bottles to try:
Full-bodied, rounder Malvazija has the weight and texture a hard sheep's cheese needs, where a light, fresh white would be overpowered. Its ripe fruit meets the grass and herb notes toward the rind, and its acidity still cuts the fat of the grainy paste.
Bottles to try:
Skin-contact Malvazija is full-bodied, with medium acidity and some grip from the skins. That savoury, textured weight suits a grainy, hard sheep's cheese with herbal notes toward the rind, which would overpower a light, fresh white.
Bottles to try:
Istrian dairies use skuta in desserts as well as starters. Served sweet, the fresh, mild curd suits an off-dry or medium-sweet Istrian Muscat, whose grapey perfume and sweetness match the dessert while moderate acidity keeps the pairing light.
Bottles to try:
Skuta is fresh and mild, and a light, dry rosé with high acidity keeps pace with it, refreshing the palate without covering the soft, milky curd. A good match for skuta in a summer starter.
Bottles to try:
Reserve and longer-aged Teran is full-bodied with firm tannin and Teran's high acidity. A hard, full-fat sheep's cheese has the fat to soften that tannin and a grainy texture that stands up to it, while the acidity cuts through the richness.
Bottles to try:
Istrian Merlot is soft, with medium tannin and acidity and ripe fruit. Its gentle structure suits a hard sheep's cheese that its makers keep mild and milky, where a firmer red would cover the sheep's milk and herb notes.
Bottles to try:
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No. It is a traditional cheese made by individual Istrian dairies and has no protected designation.
Vesna Loborika gives 3 months on its product page. The Špin and Sirana Zlata pages do not state an ageing time.
Vesna says it goes with pršut and Teran. Sirana Zlata says its cheeses are traditionally eaten with red wine. Špin suggests peperoncino marmalade or honey and a rustic red, naming Vina Laguna Terra Rossa.
Špin says its sheep's and cow's skuta can be used in dishes from starters to main courses and desserts.
Špin (Agrolaguna), Sirana Zlata in Čepić polje and Sirana Orbanić near Pazin each list it among their dairy products.
