DO Rias BaixasAlbarinoFounded 2001Costa familyWinemaker Sonia CostaVilanova de Arousa, Val do Salnes
Four-generation Vilanova de Arousa estate whose vineyards sit zero metres from the Ria de Arousa. Salnes Albarino at its most maritime; the family released its first commercial vintage in 2001.
Tip: Lagar de Costa's tasting room overlooks the Ria de Arousa with vineyards 200 metres from the cellar. Visit on the same trip as the Cambados Pazo de Fefinanes for a coastal Salnes contrast.
DO Rias BaixasAlbarinoFounded 1997Alfonso familyWinemaker Miguel AlfonsoBiodynamic PracticingORGANIC CERTIFIEDCastrelo, Cambados, Val do Salnes
Organic and biodynamic-practising Salnes hillside producer with vines on huge granite outcrops. Whole-bunch pressed Albarino without added SO2 in the cellar; minimal-intervention single-cru white from a 7.5-hectare granite hillside.
Tip: Pedralonga visits the granite plot above the bodega; ask for the lees-aged single-vineyard release if available.
DO Rias BaixasAlbarinoFounded 1887Martin-Serantes familyWinemaker Angela MartinRibadumia, Val do Salnes
Family-owned bodega in Ribadumia with history to 1887, run by the founder's granddaughter Angela Martin. Pure granitic-sands Albarino on 100 percent estate fruit; the Casa Castineira bottling is the old-vine premium tier.
Tip: Castro Martin runs cellar visits by appointment from the 1981 bodega in Ribadumia. The wines are served on British Airways first class and on P&O and Cunard cruises.
DO Rias BaixasAlbarinoFounded 1750Pegullal familySalceda de Caselas, Condado do Tea
18th-century Italian-Renaissance pazo on the Mino with monumental walls, camellia gardens and 370-plus camellia species. Single-finca Condado do Tea Albarino plus estate olive oil and cosmetics.
Tip: Pazo Pegullal is less than thirty minutes from Salvaterra do Mino and pairs well with a Condado do Tea festival visit in August. The camellia gardens are at their peak in February and March.
DO Rias BaixasAlbarinoFounded 1981Pedro Martinez Hernandez (Baigorri)Winemaker Diego RiosTremoedo, Vilanova de Arousa, Val do Salnes
DO co-founding bodega in Tremoedo with a French-influenced 1989 manor cellar and an early premium-design Albariño vineyard (Finca Tremoedo, planted 1980).
Tip: Visit the 1989 manor house bodega in Tremoedo, fifteen minutes north of Cambados. The Etiqueta Verde is the entry; the Etiqueta Ambar (the prestige tier) is at the top of the bodega range.
DO Rias BaixasAlbarinoFounded 2003Jorge Ordonez SelectionsSanxenxo, Val do Salnes
Salnes bodega founded by Jorge Ordonez (who first imported Albarino to the US in 1991) to make age-worthy Albarino. Partial barrel-fermented and lees-aged from 1966 plantings; the Suaves Colinas is the prestige tier.
Tip: La Cana Suaves Colinas is the bodega's top wine, made only in select vintages and intended for cellaring. The base La Cana is the practical introduction to Ordonez's vision.