Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume estate of 120 hectares between the two appellations, with a 60-hectare Touraine outpost, certified organic and known for the Le Chene Marchand single-vineyard.
Signature wines: jolivet-sancerre, jolivet-pouilly-fume, jolivet-le-chene-marchand
Tip: Le Chene Marchand from Bue is the appellation's iconic caillottes site; Jolivet farms a key plot here.
Address: Route de Chavignol, 18300 Sancerre, France, Loire Valley
Sury-en-Vaux family domaine farmed biodynamically by Stephane Riffault, with cuvees parcel-bottled across Sancerre's three soil types (caillottes, terres blanches, silex).
Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment in Sury-en-Vaux
Signature wines: riffault-les-boucauds, riffault-les-chasseignes, riffault-les-denisottes
Tip: Stephane bottles parcel by parcel: Les Boucauds (terres blanches), Les Chasseignes (caillottes), Les Denisottes (silex) is the trio to taste.
Sury-en-Vaux family domaine farmed biodynamically by Stephane Riffault, with cuvees parcel-bottled across Sancerre's three soil types (caillottes, terres blanches, silex).
Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment in Sury-en-Vaux
Signature wines: riffault-les-boucauds, riffault-les-chasseignes, riffault-les-denisottes
Tip: Stephane bottles parcel by parcel: Les Boucauds (terres blanches), Les Chasseignes (caillottes), Les Denisottes (silex) is the trio to taste.
Saint-Andelain Pouilly-Fume estate farming around 12 hectares biodynamically since the 1980s, with single-vineyard cuvees from flint (Silex) and clay (Pur Sang) parcels.
Tasting: No regular public visits. Allocation only.
Signature wines: dagueneau-silex, dagueneau-pur-sang, dagueneau-buisson-renard
Tip: Silex (flint) and Pur Sang (clay) are the two single-vineyard reference cuvees; Asteroide, from ungrafted vines, is the unicorn.
Reference Menetou-Salon domaine in Morogues, farming 40 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir on Kimmeridgian limestone, with a Sancerre outpost on terres blanches.
Tasting: Visits and tastings at the Morogues cellar; the family also operates La Closerie de Morogues table d'hote
Signature wines: pelle-clos-des-blanchais, pelle-morogues, pelle-cromois
Tip: Clos des Blanchais is a monopole Menetou-Salon that drinks like a top Sancerre at half the price.
The reference Vouvray producer, 30 hectares of Demeter-biodynamic Chenin Blanc across three lieux-dits (Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont, Clos du Bourg) in dry, off-dry, sweet and sparkling styles.
Tasting: Cellar visits and tastings by appointment in central Vouvray
Signature wines: huet-le-mont-sec, huet-le-haut-lieu, huet-clos-du-bourg
Tip: Top Huet moelleux reserve bottlings from great vintages (1947, 1989, 1990) age for half a century. Drink the secs young, hold the moelleux.
Vernou-sur-Brenne estate farming 24 hectares of organic Chenin Blanc, vinified in a 16th-century troglodyte cellar across sec, demi-sec, moelleux and petillant.
Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment; 16th-century troglodyte cave
Signature wines: careme-vouvray-sec, careme-le-clos, careme-petillant
Tip: Careme's Petillant is a precise traditional-method sparkling Chenin worth chasing down.
Philippe Foreau's 12-hectare Vouvray on the Premiere Cote next door to Huet, with the Goutte d'Or moelleux made only in exceptional vintages.
Tasting: By appointment, Monday-Saturday 9-12, 14-18
Signature wines: foreau-vouvray-sec, foreau-moelleux-reserve, foreau-goutte-dor
Tip: Foreau picks parcel by parcel multiple times each harvest; the Sec is a dry-Chenin masterclass.
