The island of Salina in the Aeolian archipelago concentrates the wine production of the seven islands. Its Malvasia delle Lipari DOC is made from the aromatic Malvasia di Lipari grape dried on the terraced volcanic slopes. The Hauner family began bottling on Salina in 1963. Combine the ferry crossing with caper-brined swordfish carpaccio at one of Salina's seafront restaurants.
Pours: Malvasia delle Lipari DOC passito, Malvasia delle Lipari DOC naturale, local Zibibbo vinifications
Tip: The Hauner estate at Santa Marina offers visits by appointment; book ahead as the family farm is small and visitor slots are limited. The naturale dry Malvasia is the wine to seek; it rarely leaves the island.
Palermo is the urban anchor of Sicilian wine culture. The Vucciria and Ballaro market areas contain historic enoteche pouring the island's range by the glass.
Pours: Sicilia DOC whites from Camporeale, Nero d'Avola Sicilia DOC, Marsala Superiore DOC by-the-glass
Tip: Combine a morning Palermo market walk (Mercato di Ballaro for street food and local wine pours) with an afternoon Monreale cathedral visit and return for aperitivo at an Ortigia or Quattro Canti enoteca.
The baroque hillside city of Ragusa Ibla and the chocolate capital of Modica anchor the south-east corner of Sicily where Sicily's only DOCG wine is produced.
Pours: Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG, Frappato Sicilia DOC
Tip: The Modica chocolate tradition is protected by a geographic indication; pick up a bar from Antica Dolceria Bonajuto on Corso Umberto to pair with a Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico later. The bittersweet cinnamon version complements Frappato's tart cherry notes.
The Tyrrhenian coast between Palermo and Cefalu is flanked by the Madonie mountains where the Contea di Sclafani DOC appellation produces whites from Catarratto and Grillo at altitude.
Pours: Sicilia DOC white from Catarratto, Contea di Sclafani DOC, Tenuta Castellaccia Perricone
Tip: The Contea di Sclafani DOC is a small inland Sicilian appellation in the Madonie range; tasting whites from this altitude alongside the coast gives a clear contrast to the flat-vineyard Sicilia DOC style.
The north face of Etna along the SP120 from Randazzo through Solicchiata and Castiglione di Sicilia is a dense Sicilian wine-tourism corridor with over 100 producers within 30 km.
Pours: Etna Rosso DOC contrada, Etna Bianco DOC Carricante, Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Milo
Tip: Drive the SP120 from Randazzo to Linguaglossa, stopping at at least two producers: the route takes you past Cornelissen, Passopisaro, Terre Nere and Benanti's Caselle estate within 30 km.
The Val di Noto in the south-east corner of Sicily combines UNESCO-listed baroque towns (Noto, Ragusa, Modica, Scicli) with concentrated Nero d'Avola plantings. The town of Avola gives the grape its name.
Pours: Noto DOC Nero d'Avola, Sicilia DOC Nero d'Avola, Moscato di Noto DOC
Tip: Noto's almond granita at Caffe Sicilia is a classic before or after the cellar visits; the combination of Nero d'Avola and almond pastries is a regional Sicilian food-wine match.