The north face of Etna along the SP120 from Randazzo through Solicchiata and Castiglione di Sicilia is Sicily's most concentrated wine-tourism corridor. Pre-phylloxera alberello Nerello Mascalese at 600-900 metres elevation, volcanic black-sand soil, and a view of the crater from the vineyards. Pair the Etna circuit with a late-afternoon stop in Taormina above the Ionian coast for evening dining.
Pours: Etna Rosso DOC contrada, Etna Bianco DOC Carricante, Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Milo
Tip: Drive the SP120 from Randazzo to Linguaglossa, stopping at at least two producers: the route takes you past Cornelissen, Passopisaro, Terre Nere and Benanti's Caselle estate within 30 km.
The Val di Noto in the south-east corner of Sicily combines UNESCO-listed baroque towns (Noto, Ragusa, Modica, Scicli) with some of the island's most powerful Nero d'Avola vineyards. The town of Avola gives the grape its name. Arianna Occhipinti and Gulfi in Chiaramonte Gulfi are the area's most celebrated producers. Combine a cellar visit at one producer with lunch in baroque Noto.
Pours: Noto DOC Nero d'Avola, Sicilia DOC Nero d'Avola, Moscato di Noto DOC
Tip: Noto's almond granita at Caffe Sicilia is essential before or after the cellar visits; the combination of Nero d'Avola and almond pastries is one of Sicily's great food-wine pairings.
The western tip of Sicily centred on Marsala is one of the island's most culturally layered wine destinations. The bagli of Florio, Pellegrino and Marco de Bartoli sit along the seafront. A 5-minute boat crossing reaches the Phoenician island of Mozia in the lagoon (one of Sicily's most important archaeological sites). The Trapani saltpans stretching north past Marsala are a UNESCO-listed landscape.
Pours: Marsala Superiore DOC, Marsala Vergine DOC, Grillo Sicilia DOC, Marsala Fine DOC
Tip: Allow a full day: morning cellar tour at Florio's historic bagli, afternoon Mozia boat crossing, late afternoon at the saltpans at golden hour. Book the Florio tour in advance.
Pantelleria, the volcanic island 70 km from Tunisia and 85 km from Trapani, is the home of Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) and the celebrated Passito di Pantelleria. The island's UNESCO-recognised alberello di Pantelleria vine-training system, developed to withstand the sirocco wind, is the world's only vine-training method to hold cultural-heritage status. Donnafugata, Marco de Bartoli and Salvatore Murana are the leading producers.
Pours: Passito di Pantelleria DOC, Moscato di Pantelleria DOC, Zibibbo vinified dry
Tip: The island is best in May-June and September-October; August is intensely hot and hotels book out far in advance. Stay at least two nights to visit two or three producers and experience the landscape properly.
The island of Salina in the Aeolian archipelago is the only serious wine producer of the seven islands. Its Malvasia delle Lipari DOC is made from the aromatic Malvasia di Lipari grape dried on the terraced volcanic slopes. The Hauner family has been the benchmark producer since 1964. Combine the ferry crossing with caper-brined swordfish carpaccio at one of Salina's seafront restaurants.
Pours: Malvasia delle Lipari DOC passito, Malvasia delle Lipari DOC naturale, local Zibibbo vinifications
Tip: The Hauner estate at Santa Marina offers visits by appointment; book ahead as the family farm is small and visitor slots are limited. The naturale dry Malvasia is the wine to seek; it rarely leaves the island.
Palermo is the urban anchor of Sicilian wine culture. The Vucciria and Ballaro market areas contain historic enoteche pouring the island's range by the glass. A 30-minute drive up to Monreale visits the Norman-Arab cathedral (UNESCO) surrounded by the Conca d'Oro orchards and vineyards that once made this area one of Sicily's wealthiest agricultural zones. The drive through the citrus groves above Palermo gives the landscape context for why Sicily's western interior is still planted with Catarratto and Perricone.
Pours: Sicilia DOC whites from Camporeale, Nero d'Avola Sicilia DOC, Marsala Superiore DOC by-the-glass
Tip: Combine a morning Palermo market walk (Mercato di Ballaro for street food and local wine pours) with an afternoon Monreale cathedral visit and return for aperitivo at an Ortigia or Quattro Canti enoteca.