The baroque hillside city of Ragusa Ibla and the chocolate capital of Modica anchor the south-east corner of Sicily where Sicily's only DOCG wine is produced. COS in Vittoria (30 min from Ragusa) makes Cerasuolo di Vittoria in pithos amphorae; Arianna Occhipinti's estate is nearby in Vittoria. Modica chocolate (made without added milk fats in a pre-Columbian Spanish-Arab tradition) pairs uniquely with aged Cerasuolo.
Pours: Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG, Frappato Sicilia DOC
Tip: The Modica chocolate tradition is protected by a geographic indication; pick up a bar from Antica Dolceria Bonajuto on Corso Umberto to pair with a Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico later. The bittersweet cinnamon version complements Frappato's tart cherry notes.
The Tyrrhenian coast between Palermo and Cefalu is flanked by the Madonie mountains where the Contea di Sclafani DOC appellation produces whites from Catarratto and Grillo at altitude. Cefalu itself is one of Sicily's most beautiful coastal towns, with a Norman cathedral. The town is framed by vineyards planted on volcanic hillsides. Returning via Castelbuono (30 min inland) allows a stop at the Mandralisca museum and local wine-bar scene.
Pours: Sicilia DOC white from Catarratto, Contea di Sclafani DOC, Tenuta Castellaccia Perricone
Tip: The Contea di Sclafani DOC is one of Sicily's most obscure but geographically distinctive appellations; tasting whites from this altitude alongside the coast gives a clear contrast to the flat-vineyard Sicilia DOC style.
The north face of Etna along the SP120 from Randazzo through Solicchiata and Castiglione di Sicilia is Sicily's most concentrated wine-tourism corridor. Pre-phylloxera alberello Nerello Mascalese at 600-900 metres elevation, volcanic black-sand soil, and a view of the crater from the vineyards. Pair the Etna circuit with a late-afternoon stop in Taormina above the Ionian coast for evening dining.
Pours: Etna Rosso DOC contrada, Etna Bianco DOC Carricante, Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Milo
Tip: Drive the SP120 from Randazzo to Linguaglossa, stopping at at least two producers: the route takes you past Cornelissen, Passopisaro, Terre Nere and Benanti's Caselle estate within 30 km.
The Val di Noto in the south-east corner of Sicily combines UNESCO-listed baroque towns (Noto, Ragusa, Modica, Scicli) with some of the island's most powerful Nero d'Avola vineyards. The town of Avola gives the grape its name. Arianna Occhipinti and Gulfi in Chiaramonte Gulfi are the area's most celebrated producers. Combine a cellar visit at one producer with lunch in baroque Noto.
Pours: Noto DOC Nero d'Avola, Sicilia DOC Nero d'Avola, Moscato di Noto DOC
Tip: Noto's almond granita at Caffe Sicilia is essential before or after the cellar visits; the combination of Nero d'Avola and almond pastries is one of Sicily's great food-wine pairings.
The western tip of Sicily centred on Marsala is one of the island's most culturally layered wine destinations. The bagli of Florio, Pellegrino and Marco de Bartoli sit along the seafront. A 5-minute boat crossing reaches the Phoenician island of Mozia in the lagoon (one of Sicily's most important archaeological sites). The Trapani saltpans stretching north past Marsala are a UNESCO-listed landscape.
Pours: Marsala Superiore DOC, Marsala Vergine DOC, Grillo Sicilia DOC, Marsala Fine DOC
Tip: Allow a full day: morning cellar tour at Florio's historic bagli, afternoon Mozia boat crossing, late afternoon at the saltpans at golden hour. Book the Florio tour in advance.
Pantelleria, the volcanic island 70 km from Tunisia and 85 km from Trapani, is the home of Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) and the celebrated Passito di Pantelleria. The island's UNESCO-recognised alberello di Pantelleria vine-training system, developed to withstand the sirocco wind, is the world's only vine-training method to hold cultural-heritage status. Donnafugata, Marco de Bartoli and Salvatore Murana are the leading producers.
Pours: Passito di Pantelleria DOC, Moscato di Pantelleria DOC, Zibibbo vinified dry
Tip: The island is best in May-June and September-October; August is intensely hot and hotels book out far in advance. Stay at least two nights to visit two or three producers and experience the landscape properly.