A guide to Malvasia Istriana worth seeking out, by region. We list the estates, how each region expresses the grape, and the bottles that show it best.

Malvasia Istriana in Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Damijan Podversic ★ 4.7

Venezia Giulia IGT / DOC CollioRibolla Gialla, Friulano, Malvasia Istriana, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon12 haFounded 1999Damijan PodversicWinemaker Damijan PodversicBiodynamic PracticingORGANIC CERTIFIEDoslavia

Damijan Podversic established his own cellar in 1999 after years of working with Josko Gravner. The 12 hectares climb Monte Calvario above Gorizia city, sharing the ponca slope with the Oslavia houses.

Tasting: Cellar visit by appointment at Gorizia with a vineyard walk on the Monte Calvario parcels above the city and a flight of the Kaplja Bianco, Nekaj, Ribolla and Prelit Rosso from current and back vintages.

Signature wines: damijan-podversic-ribolla, damijan-podversic-kaplja, damijan-podversic-nekaj, damijan-podversic-prelit

Tip: The Kaplja Bianco (Friulano, Chardonnay, Malvasia Istriana) is the cellar's house white; pair it with prosciutto di San Daniele for the canonical Friulian table.

Borgo del Tiglio ★ 4.8

DOC CollioFriulano, Sauvignon, Malvasia Istriana, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Merlot18 haFounded 1981Nicola ManferrariWinemaker Nicola Manferraricormons

Nicola Manferrari took over the family cellar at Cormons in 1981 and rebuilt it into one of the Collio's most-cited reference estates for Friulano.

Tasting: Cellar visit at San Giorgio by appointment with a vineyard walk through the Cormons parcels and a flight of the Friulano, the Studio di Bianco (the cellar's whole-Collio statement) and back-vintage releases. Reservation required.

Signature wines: borgo-del-tiglio-friulano, borgo-del-tiglio-studio-di-bianco, borgo-del-tiglio-rosso-della-centa, borgo-del-tiglio-malvasia

Tip: The Studio di Bianco (Friulano, Sauvignon, Malvasia) is the cellar's anchor white; pair it with a slow-roasted pork shoulder from the Trattoria al Cacciatore at La Subida.

Edi Keber ★ 4.8

DOC CollioFriulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana14 haFounded 1972Keber family (Edi Keber with son Kristian Keber)Biodynamic PracticingORGANIC CERTIFIEDcormons

Edi Keber has farmed the family parcels at Zegla above Cormons since 1972 and pushed the cellar toward the field-blend Collio Bianco model in the 2010s.

Tasting: Cellar visit at Zegla by appointment with a vineyard walk through the Cormons hillside parcels and a vertical tasting of the Collio Bianco (Friulano, Ribolla, Malvasia) across multiple vintages. Kristian Keber runs day-to-day winemaking.

Signature wines: edi-keber-collio, edi-keber-collio-riserva

Tip: The cellar's argument that Collio is a single blend, not a list of varietals, is best understood with a vertical of the Collio across three or four vintages.

Doro Princic ★ 4.6

DOC CollioFriulano, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon, Malvasia Istriana, Ribolla Gialla11 haFounded 1955Princic family (Sandro Princic and Alessandro Princic)cormons

Founded in 1955 by Doro Princic, the Pradis cellar built its reputation on traditional reductive whites without oak or skin contact. Now run by Doro's son Sandro and grandson Alessandro Princic.

Tasting: Cellar visit at Pradis by appointment with a vineyard walk through the Cormons parcels and a flight of the Pinot Bianco, Friulano and Malvasia from the current vintage. The cellar focuses on traditional reductive whites without skin contact.

Signature wines: princic-pinot-bianco, princic-friulano, princic-malvasia

Tip: The Pinot Bianco is the cellar's calling card and one of the Collio's most-cited Pinot Bianco bottlings; pair it with the local prosciutto di San Daniele.

I Clivi ★ 4.7

DOC Friuli Colli Orientali / DOC CollioFriulano, Malvasia Istriana, Verduzzo Friulano, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso16 haFounded 1996Pinto family (Mario Zanusso with sons Ferdinando Zanusso)ORGANIC CERTIFIEDcorno-di-rosazzo

I Clivi was founded in 1996 by Mario Zanusso, who restored old-vine parcels at Corno di Rosazzo (Clivi Galea in the Colli Orientali) and Brazzano (Clivi Brazan in the Collio) where vines now average over 60 years.

Tasting: Cellar visit at Gramogliano by appointment with a vineyard walk through the Clivi Brazan and Clivi Galea old-vine parcels (vines averaging over 60 years) and a flight of the Brazan Friulano, Galea Bianco and the Malvasia. Reservation required.

Signature wines: i-clivi-brazan-friulano, i-clivi-galea-bianco, i-clivi-malvasia, i-clivi-verduzzo-rno

Tip: Ask the cellar for vine ages on the Clivi Brazan and Clivi Galea parcels; both are among the oldest continuous Friulano plantings in the region.

Vie di Romans ★ 4.8

DOC Friuli IsonzoPinot Grigio, Sauvignon, Friulano, Chardonnay, Malvasia Istriana, Pinot Bianco60 haFounded 1978Gallo family (Gianfranco Gallo)Winemaker Gianfranco Galloromans-d-isonzo

Gianfranco Gallo took over the family Isonzo plain cellar in 1978 and built Vie di Romans into the appellation's reference point. The 60 hectares on the alluvial gravel plain south of Cormons feed single-parcel Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Friulano with very low yields and lees-driven elevage. Vieris Sauvignon and Dessimis Pinot Grigio are the cellar's most-cited bottlings.

Tasting: Cellar visit at Vie di Romans by appointment with a vineyard walk through the river-shaped gravel parcels of the Isonzo plain and a flight of the Vieris Sauvignon, Dis Cumieris Friulano, Dessimis Pinot Grigio and Ciampagnis Chardonnay. Reservation required.

Signature wines: vie-di-romans-vieris, vie-di-romans-dis-cumieris, vie-di-romans-dessimis, vie-di-romans-ciampagnis, vie-di-romans-flors-di-uis

Tip: The Isonzo plain's gravel parcels produce ripe, concentrated whites unlike the more aromatic Collio expressions; book a comparative tasting with a Collio Sauvignon nearby.

Edi Kante ★ 4.8

DOC Carso / Venezia Giulia IGTVitovska, Malvasia Istriana, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Nero12 haFounded 1980Edi KanteWinemaker Edi KanteORGANIC CERTIFIEDduino-aurisina

Edi Kante built his cellar dug 18 metres deep into the Carso limestone at Prepotto-Aurisina starting in 1980, and now anchors the Carso DOC as one of its two reference cellars (alongside Vodopivec).

Tasting: Cellar visit at Prepotto by appointment with a tour of the 18-metre-deep cellar dug into the Carso limestone, a vineyard walk through the Aurisina parcels and a flight of the Vitovska, Malvasia, Chardonnay and Sauvignon. Reservation required.

Signature wines: kante-vitovska, kante-malvasia, kante-chardonnay, kante-sauvignon

Tip: The 18-metre cellar tour is the most striking architectural moment in any Carso cellar; ask to see all three excavated levels.

Zidarich ★ 4.7

DOC CarsoVitovska, Malvasia Istriana, Terrano, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio10 haFounded 1988Zidarich family (Beniamino Zidarich)Winemaker Beniamino ZidarichBiodynamic PracticingORGANIC CERTIFIEDsgonico

Beniamino Zidarich founded the cellar in 1988 at Prepotto di Sgonico and built it into one of the Carso DOC's reference producers alongside Kante and Vodopivec.

Tasting: Cellar visit at Prepotto by appointment with a tour of the cellar dug into the Carso limestone, a vineyard walk through the Sgonico parcels and a flight of the Vitovska, Malvasia, Prulke Bianco and Terrano. Reservation required.

Signature wines: zidarich-vitovska, zidarich-prulke, zidarich-malvasia, zidarich-terrano

Tip: Prulke is the cellar's whole-Carso bianco statement; pair it with the local Carso prosciutto for the canonical karst table.

Skerk ★ 4.7

DOC CarsoVitovska, Malvasia Istriana, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Terrano10 haFounded 1968Skerk family (Sandi Skerk)Winemaker Sandi SkerkBiodynamic PracticingORGANIC CERTIFIEDsgonico

Sandi Skerk runs the family cellar at Prepotto di Sgonico, founded in 1968. The 10 hectares on the Carso plateau feed Vitovska, Malvasia, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio (all fermented on skins) plus the Terrano red.

Tasting: Cellar visit at Prepotto by appointment with a tour of the limestone-excavated cellar and a flight of the Vitovska, Malvasia, Ograde (the cellar's field blend) and Terrano. The on-site osmiza (the Carso seasonal farm tavern) serves karst plates with the wines.

Signature wines: skerk-vitovska, skerk-ograde, skerk-malvasia, skerk-terrano

Tip: Time a visit with one of the cellar's osmiza weekends to taste the wines alongside Carso prosciutto, jota soup and frico.

Castelvecchio ★ 4.5

DOC CarsoVitovska, Malvasia Istriana, Terrano, Refosco, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Sauvignon50 haFounded 1985Terraneo family (Maddalena Terraneo)duino-aurisina

Castelvecchio sits at Sagrado at the northern edge of the Carso, where the karst plateau meets the Isonzo plain. The Terraneo family has run the cellar since 1985, with Maddalena Terraneo leading the operation.

Tasting: Estate visit at Sagrado by appointment with a tour of the medieval castle ruins, a vineyard walk through the Carso parcels and a flight of the Vitovska, Malvasia and Terrano. The castle setting makes the visit a hybrid wine and heritage half-day.

Signature wines: castelvecchio-vitovska, castelvecchio-malvasia, castelvecchio-terrano, castelvecchio-refosco

Tip: The Carso castle setting at Sagrado makes Castelvecchio the most photogenic Carso visit; pair it with the Isonzo battlefield museum a short drive away.

Lupinc ★ 4.4

DOC CarsoVitovska, Malvasia Istriana, Glera, Terrano6 haFounded 1990Lupinc family (Matej Lupinc)ORGANIC CERTIFIEDduino-aurisina

Matej Lupinc runs the small family cellar at Prosecco, the Carso village above Trieste whose name famously predates the Glera-grape sparkling Prosecco of the Veneto.

Tasting: Cellar visit at Prosecco by appointment with a vineyard walk through the Carso parcels above Trieste and a flight of the Vitovska, Malvasia and Glera bottlings. The cellar's osmiza runs at the Carso seasonal calendar.

Signature wines: lupinc-vitovska, lupinc-malvasia, lupinc-glera-sui-lieviti

Tip: The Glera sui lieviti bottling is one of the few Glera wines from the Carso village of Prosecco itself; the cellar serves it during the osmiza weekends.

Tenuta di Blasig ★ 4.4

DOC Friuli IsonzoMalvasia Istriana, Friulano, Pinot Grigio, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon14 haFounded 1788Bortolusso family (Elisabetta Bortolusso)mariano-del-friuli

Tenuta di Blasig has been in the family at Ronchi dei Legionari since 1788, making it one of Friuli's oldest continuously family-owned cellars. Elisabetta Bortolusso leads the modern operation.

Tasting: Cellar visit at Ronchi dei Legionari by appointment with a vineyard walk through the Isonzo plain parcels and a flight of the Malvasia Istriana, Friulano and Refosco.

Signature wines: tenuta-di-blasig-malvasia-istriana, tenuta-di-blasig-friulano, tenuta-di-blasig-refosco

Tip: The cellar's Malvasia Istriana from the Isonzo plain is a worthwhile contrast against the Carso versions; book a comparative tasting if travelling between the two appellations.

Damijan Podversic Tasting Room ★ 4.7

Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia IstrianaAppointment onlyoslavia

Damijan Podversic's Kalvarija cellar above Gorizia pours Kaplja, Ribolla Gialla and the Prelit red, the Oslavia school's fourth orange-wine reference.

Tasting: Walk the Kalvarija slope cellar above Gorizia with Damijan Podversic, with a flight of Kaplja (the Friulano, Chardonnay and Malvasia skin-contact blend), Ribolla Gialla and the Prelit Cabernet and Merlot red.

Edi Keber Tasting Room ★ 4.7

Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia IstrianaAppointment onlycormons

Edi Keber's Zegla cellar at Cormons pours the single-cuvée Collio Bianco that the family has chosen as its only bottling, a Friulano, Ribolla and Malvasia blend in three formats.

Tasting: Walk the Zegla hillside cellar with Edi and Kristian Keber, with a vineyard tour of the south-facing ponca and a flight of the single-cuvée Collio Bianco (Friulano, Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia Istriana) that the family bottles as its only wine.

Edi Kante Tasting Room ★ 4.8

Vitovska, Malvasia Istriana, Sauvignon, TerranoAppointment onlyduino-aurisina

Edi Kante's three-storey 18-metre-deep limestone cellar at Prepotto of Duino-Aurisina pours Vitovska, Malvasia Istriana, Sauvignon and the Terrano red from the Carso karst.

Tasting: Visit Edi Kante's 18-metre-deep limestone cellar at Prepotto of Duino-Aurisina, dug straight into the karst, with a flight of Vitovska, Malvasia Istriana, Sauvignon and the Terrano red from the iron-rich terra rossa soils.

Zidarich Tasting Room ★ 4.7

Vitovska, Malvasia Istriana, TerranoAppointment onlysgonico

Beniamino Zidarich's underground stone-vat cellar at Prepotto on the Carso plateau pours Vitovska, Malvasia Istriana, Prulke and Terrano from the limestone karst.

Tasting: Visit Beniamino Zidarich's cellar at Prepotto on the Carso plateau, with the underground stone-vat fermentation hall (carved into the limestone in 2009) and a flight of Vitovska, Malvasia Istriana, Prulke (the Vitovska, Malvasia and Sauvignon skin-contact blend) and Terrano.

Skerk ★ 4.6

DOC CarsoVitovska, Malvasia Istriana, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, TerranoFounded 1968Sandi SkerkWinemaker Sandi SkerkBiodynamic PracticingORGANIC CERTIFIEDSgonico

Seven-hectare Carso cellar at Sgonico with a limestone-carved underground tasting room and extended-skin-contact Vitovska, Malvasia and Terrano.

Why locals love it: Small estate (seven hectares), limestone-carved cellar that is not signposted from the main road, and a Carso location off the standard Collio circuit. Distribution remains tight.

Tip: Book the cellar tour to see the limestone-carved amphitheatre tasting room cut into the karst; visits run by appointment with Sandi or one of the family.

Zidarich ★ 4.6

DOC CarsoVitovska, Malvasia Istriana, TerranoFounded 1988Benjamin ZidarichWinemaker Benjamin ZidarichBiodynamic PracticingORGANIC CERTIFIEDSgonico

Seven-floor limestone-carved Carso cellar at Sgonico producing extended-skin-contact Vitovska, Malvasia blends and Terrano on tight allocations.

Why locals love it: Multi-storey limestone-carved cellar requires a guided visit, and the Carso location off the Collio tour circuit keeps casual visitors away. Tight allocations on Pruhlke and the Vitovska bottlings.

Tip: The cellar tour walks all seven underground floors cut into the limestone; allow 90 minutes for the visit plus the tasting flight.

Damijan Podversic ★ 4.7

DOC Collio / Venezia Giulia IGTRibolla Gialla, Friulano, Chardonnay, Malvasia Istriana, Merlot, Cabernet SauvignonFounded 1999Damijan PodversicWinemaker Damijan PodversicBiodynamic PracticingORGANIC CERTIFIEDOslavia

Twelve-hectare Oslavia orange-wine cellar above Gorizia, extended-skin-contact Ribolla, Friulano, Chardonnay and a Merlot-Cabernet red.

Why locals love it: Smaller than the three other Oslavia cellars, with most of the production reserved for sommelier and natural-wine retail in Italy and northern Europe. The Gorizia urban-edge address makes the cellar easy to miss from the Cormons-side tour map.

Tip: Damijan's address sits above the city of Gorizia rather than at the Oslavia hamlet, so it pairs naturally with a Gorizia morning before driving up to Gravner or Radikon.

Edi Keber Collio Bianco ★ 4.7

DOC CollioFriulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia IstrianaEUR 22 to 28 retail

Edi Keber's Collio is the cellar's single blended white from the Zegla vineyards above Cormons, a Friulano-led blend with Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia Istriana that the family treats as the Collio's canonical territorial wine (one bottle per vintage, no varietal cuvees). Apple skin, white pepper, dried hay and a salty almond finish.

Tip: Edi Keber bottles only one wine per vintage; ask the cellar for a vertical of two or three back-vintages to read the territorial expression year to year.

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