A guide to Albillo Mayor worth seeking out, by region. We list the estates, how each region expresses the grape, and the bottles that show it best.

Albillo Mayor in Ribera del Duero

Dominio del Águila ★ 4.8

DO Ribera del DueroTinto Fino, Albillo Mayor, Garnacha TintaFounded 2010ORGANIC CERTIFIEDLa Horra

Jorge Monzón's certified-organic estate at La Aguilera producing Pícaro del Águila rosé, Dominio del Águila and single-parcel Peñas Aladas from pre-phylloxera old vines.

Bodegas Protos ★ 4.6

DO Ribera del DueroTinto Fino, Albillo MayorFounded 1927Peñafiel

Founded in 1927 as a cooperative under Peñafiel Castle, Protos is the historic anchor of the appellation and the region's most-visited winery, housed in a spectacular Richard Rogers-designed cellar opened in 2008.

Tasting: The most-visited winery in Ribera del Duero, with guided tours open to the public since 2009; book via enoturismo@bodegasprotos.com or +34 659 843 463.

Tip: Combine the cellar tour with a visit to the castle-top Museo Provincial del Vino above.

Dominio de Atauta ★ 4.8

DO Ribera del DueroTinto Fino, Albillo MayorFounded 2000ORGANIC CERTIFIEDSoria Sub-zone

Specialists in extreme-altitude old-vine Tinto Fino from the Soria sub-zone at Atauta, where pre-phylloxera ungrafted vines at over 1000 metres produce the Llanos del Almendro and single-parcel La Mala cuvées.

Comenge ★ 4.5

DO Ribera del DueroTinto Fino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Albillo MayorORGANIC CERTIFIEDCuriel de Duero

An organic estate at Curiel de Duero producing Don Miguel Comenge, Familia Comenge and the Biberius entry range, plus an Albillo Mayor white and rosé from their castle-view vineyard overlooking the Duero.

Dominio de Es ★ 4.7

DO Ribera del DueroTinto Fino, Albillo MayorAtauta, Soria

Bertrand Sourdais, who also makes Antidoto, launched Dominio de Es sourcing fruit from small pre-phylloxera parcelas around Atauta in Soria. The Vinas Viejas de Soria blends co-fermented Tinto Fino with old-vine Albillo Mayor, aged in Burgundy cooperage. Production is tiny and allocation-only. Decanter reviewed the 2017 vintage positively. One of the most distinctive expressions of the Soria sub-zone available outside Spain.

Tip: Available through specialist Spanish importers; check Voyageurs du Vin (France) and Decanter merchant links for international availability.

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