Domaine des Terres Dorées ★ 4.5
Jean-Paul Brun's 60+ hectare family estate in the southern Beaujolais, started in 1979 with 4 hectares in Charnay. Eschews carbonic maceration in favour of traditional Burgundian vinification with indigenous yeasts and minimal sulphur; produces both classic Gamay cuvees (notably L'Ancien Vieilles Vignes) and unusual old-vine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.