Marcos García Alba's entry Mencía from Valtuille de Abajo, the hamlet that carries an unusual density of small producers on one or two streets.
Tip: Buy it in Valtuille itself: the village has more bodega doors per street than anywhere else in the DO.
The younger of the two wines Pittacum pours at the close of its Arganza visit, unoaked Mencía made to be drunk rather than kept.
Tip: The Arganza visit finishes on Petit Pittacum and Pittacum side by side, which is the cheapest way to taste the two tiers against each other.
Bodega del Abad's entry Godello from Carracedelo, made from the estate's own 30 hectares at Señorío de Valcarce next to the Camino.
Tip: The EUR 15 winery visit includes a guided tasting and a bodega glass, which makes buying at the cellar door better value than buying blind.
Gancedo farms 100 hectares organically across 600 parcels around Quilós at 600 to 750 metres, and this is the entry red off them.
Tip: Gancedo picks by hand into 15 and 20 kilo crates from the first days of September.
The Bierzo Alto house's entry Godello, from the cooler eastern end of the denomination around San Román de Bembibre.
Tip: Set it against a valley-floor Godello from Pieros or Carracedelo to see what altitude does to the variety inside one DO.
Godelia's young Mencía from Pieros, and the red half of the winery's take-away tasting case for visitors who cannot stay for a sit-down session.
Tip: The EUR 40 Godelia Joven package is a cellar visit plus a two-bottle case of Viernes Godello and Viernes Mencía for two people to open later.
Gancedo's Godello comes mostly from Lamas de Picón at Canedo, above 650 metres on sandy loam beside an old Roman castro.
Tip: Gancedo also bottles a barrel-aged Godello called Herencia del Capricho, worth tasting alongside this one at the cellar.
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