The Bierzo Alto house's entry Godello, from the cooler eastern end of the denomination around San Román de Bembibre.
Tip: Set it against a valley-floor Godello from Pieros or Carracedelo to see what altitude does to the variety inside one DO.
Godelia's young Mencía from Pieros, and the red half of the winery's take-away tasting case for visitors who cannot stay for a sit-down session.
Tip: The EUR 40 Godelia Joven package is a cellar visit plus a two-bottle case of Viernes Godello and Viernes Mencía for two people to open later.
Gancedo's Godello comes mostly from Lamas de Picón at Canedo, above 650 metres on sandy loam beside an old Roman castro.
Tip: Gancedo also bottles a barrel-aged Godello called Herencia del Capricho, worth tasting alongside this one at the cellar.
The Cacabelos co-operative's Godello, the cheapest honest route into the variety and a fixture of the co-operative's own town shop.
Tip: The same shop carries the Guerra orujo and vermouths, so it is the single stop for the co-operative's whole range.
A step up from Baltos in the Dominio de Tares range, still comfortably under EUR 15 and made from the same Bierzo Alto slopes.
Tip: Taste it beside Baltos and Cepas Viejas to walk the estate's three price tiers in one sitting.
Gancedo's old-vine Mencía from centenarian parcels between 600 and 750 metres, on clay loam with slate stones and, at San Miguel, on limestone.
Tip: San Miguel in Arganza is the only Gancedo parcel on calcareous soil, which is unusual in a DO the Consejo describes as carbonate-free.
The flagship of the Estévez family's return to Valtuille de Abajo, made from vineyards their great-grandfather Ramón bought before the family left for Mexico.
Tip: Valtuille de Abajo has a dozen bodega doors within walking distance of each other. Versos de Valtuille is a good first stop on that walk.
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