Just over the Apennines from Tuscany lies Modena's Lambrusco country. Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC (north of Modena, between the Secchia and Panaro rivers) is the lightest, most aromatic and most floral of the five Lambrusco DOC zones, made in frizzante and spumante styles.
Pours: Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC
Tip: Pair Sorbara with tortelli di zucca and prosciutto from the nearby Parma slopes; small producers like Cleto Chiarli and Cantina della Volta book direct visits.
The terraced cliffs of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Vernazza and Monterosso are classified as heroic viticulture (CERVIM). Sciacchetra is a honey-coloured passito dessert wine, dried for up to 40 days on coastal cantinas.
Pours: Cinque Terre DOC (Bosco, Albarola, Vermentino blend), Cinque Terre Sciacchetra DOC (passito dessert)
Tip: Hike the Sentiero Azzurro between villages and book a tasting at the Cantina Cinque Terre cooperative or a small producer like Possa or Bisson.
Verdicchio's hill-country home, across the Apennines on the Adriatic side. Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva was promoted to DOCG in 2010, requiring 18 months minimum ageing. Villa Bucci, Umani Ronchi and La Staffa anchor the producer roster.
Pours: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC, Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG
Tip: Pair the structured Riserva with the Marche's brodetto fish stew; the bitter-almond finish is a characteristic Verdicchio marker.
Thirty minutes by train from Roma Termini, the Castelli Romani volcanic hills produce a historic Roman white documented since antiquity. Frascati Superiore became DOCG in 2011, blending Malvasia di Candia and Malvasia del Lazio with Trebbiano. Roman caves under producers like Castel de Paolis and Poggio Le Volpi host tastings.
Pours: Frascati Superiore DOCG, Cannellino di Frascati DOCG
Tip: Frascati makes the most sense as a satellite of a Rome stay; the train from Termini to Frascati takes 20 to 30 minutes with frequent departures.
The east-Apennine flip side of Tuscany's Sangiovese reaches Romagna across the mountain ridge. Single-village MGAs (Modigliana, Predappio, Bertinoro) showcase a leaner, more vertical Sangiovese; Albana di Romagna was the first white DOCG in Italy, in 1986.
Pours: Romagna Sangiovese Superiore DOC, Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC, Albana di Romagna DOCG
Tip: Producers like Fattoria Zerbina, Tre Monti and Drei Dona Tenuta La Palazza make the Romagna case persuasively; pair with piadina and squacquerone.
Montefalco in central Umbria is the home of Sagrantino, an indigenous grape with very high polyphenol levels. DOCG since 1992 in both dry and passito styles.
Pours: Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG, Montefalco Rosso DOC
Tip: Combine Sagrantino with Sagrantino passito at Caprai for the full ampelographic picture; the dry version is notable for very high polyphenol levels.