The founding estate for Malvasia delle Lipari DOC on the island of Salina in the Aeolian Islands, making one of Italy's most individual island dessert wines.
Tip: The Hauner estate also produces a dry Malvasia delle Lipari naturale that is rarely exported and shows the grape's aromatic freshness without the passito sweetness. Buy both if you make the ferry crossing.
Address: Via Umberto I 13, 98050 Santa Marina, Salina, Italy, Sicily
Certified-organic estate in Acate producing Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and a benchmark single-varietal Frappato, among the most graceful in the appellation.
Tip: The single-varietal Il Frappato di Vittoria is Valle dell'Acate's calling card and one of the most elegant expressions of the grape in the DOCG. Available at quality wine shops across Italy.
Belgian-born Frank Cornelissen makes radical no-added-sulfur Nerello Mascalese from pre-phylloxera alberello vines in the Solicchiata and Calderara contrade on the north face of Etna.
Tip: Cornelissen does not operate a conventional tasting room; allocation visits are by appointment and through importer relationships. Availability of top cuvees is tightly limited.
Century-old family estate in the Calderara contrada, making organic, minimal-intervention Etna Rosso from pre-phylloxera alberello vines. One of Etna's quietest and most authentic producers.
Tip: Calabretta rarely advertises tastings; visits are arranged by contacting the family directly. The wines appear on natural wine lists in Catania and Palermo before reaching international import markets.
Small organic cooperative in Camporeale working with small-plot farmers on native Sicilian varieties. Among the most authentic affordable organics on the island.
Tip: Look for Valdibella wines at natural wine shops in Palermo and Trapani before they disappear into export channels. The Catarratto is one of the most overlooked native whites on the island.
Organic Nero d'Avola specialist in Chiaramonte Gulfi, producing single-vineyard cru bottlings from altitude plantings that show the variety's full age-worthy complexity.
Tip: The single-vineyard Nero d'Avola hierarchy is a lesson in what altitude and vineyard aspect can do to the variety. The Nerojbleo is the most accessible entry to the range.
Small biodynamic-practicing producer in Castiglione di Sicilia on the north face of Etna, making minimal-intervention Etna DOC from pre-phylloxera alberello vines.
Tip: Available at natural wine-focused restaurants in Catania and through a small number of specialist UK importers. Production is limited; buy what you can find.
