Belgian-born Frank Cornelissen makes radical no-added-sulfur Nerello Mascalese from pre-phylloxera alberello vines in the Solicchiata and Calderara contrade on the north face of Etna.
Tip: Cornelissen does not operate a conventional tasting room; allocation visits are by appointment and through importer relationships. Availability of top cuvees is tightly limited.
Address: Contrada Barbabecchi, 95030 Solicchiata, Etna, Italy, Sicily
Century-old family estate in the Calderara contrada, making organic, minimal-intervention Etna Rosso from pre-phylloxera alberello vines. Distribution is concentrated on small specialist importers.
Tip: Calabretta rarely advertises tastings; visits are arranged by contacting the family directly. The wines appear on natural wine lists in Catania and Palermo before reaching international import markets.
Small organic cooperative in Camporeale working with small-plot farmers on native Sicilian varieties. Affordable Sicilian organic bottlings with mostly local distribution.
Tip: Look for Valdibella wines at natural wine shops in Palermo and Trapani before they disappear into export channels. The Catarratto is an under-distributed native Sicilian white worth seeking.
Organic Nero d'Avola specialist in Chiaramonte Gulfi, producing single-vineyard cru bottlings from altitude plantings that show the variety's full age-worthy complexity.
Tip: The single-vineyard Nero d'Avola range is a lesson in what altitude and vineyard aspect can do to the variety. The Nerojbleo is the entry-tier cuvée.
Small biodynamic-practicing producer in Castiglione di Sicilia on the north face of Etna, making minimal-intervention Etna DOC from pre-phylloxera alberello vines.
Tip: Available at natural wine-focused restaurants in Catania and through a small number of specialist UK importers. Production is limited; buy what you can find.
Small family Zibibbo producer on Pantelleria, making single-vineyard Passito di Pantelleria DOC from named contrade: Mueggen, Harrabi and Khamma.
Tip: Murana's wines are difficult to find off the island and through specialist importers only. If visiting Pantelleria, buy directly at the cellar: production is tiny and allocation-only internationally.
Founding estate for modern Malvasia delle Lipari DOC bottling on the island of Salina in the Aeolian Islands, producing both naturale and passito styles from terraced Malvasia di Lipari vines.
Tip: The Hauner estate also produces a dry Malvasia delle Lipari naturale that is rarely exported and shows the grape's aromatic freshness without the passito sweetness. Buy both if you make the ferry crossing.
