The Rkatsiteli in Schuchmann's Vinoterra line, the qvevri range that sits beside the estate's tank-fermented Schuchmann labels at Kisiskhevi.
Tip: Ask for the Vinoterra and the Schuchmann Rkatsiteli in the same flight: one grape, two methods, and the clearest lesson on the table.
The dry red Mukuzani on Koncho & Co's shop list, from a small Kvareli cellar whose range also holds a Saperavi Premium and older Kvareli reds held back for release.
Tip: The shop list carries an older Kvareli red as well; if you are at the cellar, ask what back vintages are open before buying the current one.
Rkatsiteli from a small Telavi cellar on Giorgi Leonidze Street. The house list is short, four or five wines, and several show as out of stock between vintages.
Tip: Check the winery's own wines page before you drive over; Sesikeli marks sold-out vintages on it rather than leaving you to find out at the door.
Khikhvi made in qvevri at Vardisubani, from a producer that has built its short list around the grape and bottles it both as a fresh white and as an amber wine.
Tip: Winiveria bottles Khikhvi both fresh and in qvevri, which makes it a short lesson in what the vessel does to one Kakhetian white.
The dry white in Chelti's range, carrying the Tsinandali name. The estate sits at Shilda on the lower southwestern slopes of the Caucasus and keeps its vineyards beside the cellar.
Tip: Chelti lists it as a dry white alongside a Kisi and a Rkatsiteli Qvevri, so ask to taste the three together and the house style becomes obvious.
Chelti's amber Rkatsiteli, listed by the estate as dry and made in qvevri. It sits in the range next to a Kisi Qvevri and two qvevri Saperavi bottlings.
Tip: Taste it beside the estate's Kisi Qvevri: same vessel, same cellar, two very different amber wines from two Kakhetian whites.
The straightforward dry Saperavi in the Khareba range, bottled at Kvareli. The tunnel cellar that stores it runs 7.7 km into the rock and sits at 12 to 16 degrees all year.
Tip: Buy it at the cave shop after the tunnel walk; the tasting there can run to 50 wines, so taste before you decide what to carry home.