The straightforward dry Saperavi in the Khareba range, bottled at Kvareli. The tunnel cellar that stores it runs 7.7 km into the rock and sits at 12 to 16 degrees all year.
Tip: Buy it at the cave shop after the tunnel walk; the tasting there can run to 50 wines, so taste before you decide what to carry home.
Khareba's dry qvevri Kisi, one of a run of qvevri bottlings on the list that also takes in Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, Khikhvi and Saperavi.
Tip: The cave shop carries the qvevri bottlings alongside the classical range, so you can line the two methods up before deciding what to buy.
The Mukuzani in Teliani Valley's range, made at the winery on the Tbilisi highway outside Telavi. Mukuzani is one of the appellations on the National Wine Agency register.
Tip: Teliani Valley also bottles under Glekhuri and Teluri, so check which label you are being poured before you compare prices.
Teliani Valley's amber Kisi, fermented in qvevri. It sits on a list that also runs to Kisiskhevi Saperavi Qvevri, Pirosmani, Tsinandali and Kindzmarauli.
Tip: This is the cheapest way into Kisi as an amber wine rather than a fresh white; the same grape is bottled both ways across Kakheti.
The Rkatsiteli in Schuchmann's Vinoterra line, the qvevri range that sits beside the estate's tank-fermented Schuchmann labels at Kisiskhevi.
Tip: Ask for the Vinoterra and the Schuchmann Rkatsiteli in the same flight: one grape, two methods, and the clearest lesson on the table.
The dry red Mukuzani on Koncho & Co's shop list, from a small Kvareli cellar whose range also holds a Saperavi Premium and older Kvareli reds held back for release.
Tip: The shop list carries an older Kvareli red as well; if you are at the cellar, ask what back vintages are open before buying the current one.
Rkatsiteli from a small Telavi cellar on Giorgi Leonidze Street. The house list is short, four or five wines, and several show as out of stock between vintages.
Tip: Check the winery's own wines page before you drive over; Sesikeli marks sold-out vintages on it rather than leaving you to find out at the door.