The dry white in Chelti's range, carrying the Tsinandali name. The estate sits at Shilda on the lower southwestern slopes of the Caucasus and keeps its vineyards beside the cellar.
Tip: Chelti lists it as a dry white alongside a Kisi and a Rkatsiteli Qvevri, so ask to taste the three together and the house style becomes obvious.
Chelti's amber Rkatsiteli, listed by the estate as dry and made in qvevri. It sits in the range next to a Kisi Qvevri and two qvevri Saperavi bottlings.
Tip: Taste it beside the estate's Kisi Qvevri: same vessel, same cellar, two very different amber wines from two Kakhetian whites.
The straightforward dry Saperavi in the Khareba range, bottled at Kvareli. The tunnel cellar that stores it runs 7.7 km into the rock and sits at 12 to 16 degrees all year.
Tip: Buy it at the cave shop after the tunnel walk; the tasting there can run to 50 wines, so taste before you decide what to carry home.
Khareba's dry qvevri Kisi, one of a run of qvevri bottlings on the list that also takes in Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, Khikhvi and Saperavi.
Tip: The cave shop carries the qvevri bottlings alongside the classical range, so you can line the two methods up before deciding what to buy.
The Mukuzani in Teliani Valley's range, made at the winery on the Tbilisi highway outside Telavi. Mukuzani is one of the appellations on the National Wine Agency register.
Tip: Teliani Valley also bottles under Glekhuri and Teluri, so check which label you are being poured before you compare prices.
Teliani Valley's amber Kisi, fermented in qvevri. It sits on a list that also runs to Kisiskhevi Saperavi Qvevri, Pirosmani, Tsinandali and Kindzmarauli.
Tip: This is the cheapest way into Kisi as an amber wine rather than a fresh white; the same grape is bottled both ways across Kakheti.
The Rkatsiteli in Schuchmann's Vinoterra line, the qvevri range that sits beside the estate's tank-fermented Schuchmann labels at Kisiskhevi.
Tip: Ask for the Vinoterra and the Schuchmann Rkatsiteli in the same flight: one grape, two methods, and the clearest lesson on the table.