Bodegas Forjas del Salnes ★ 4.8
Cult Salnes producer whose Goliardo line recovered nearly lost native red varieties (Caino, Espadeiro, Loureiro Tinto, Sousón, Brancellao) and turned Rias Baixas reds into serious sommelier wines.
Tip: Goliardo bottlings are released in micro-quantities and sell through allocation. Sign up to mailing lists via Spanish importers before chasing the wines.