Brda's main red variety in its plain varietal form, from the Gonjače cellar that Matjaž Četrtič began working in 1992.
Tip: Merlot ripens reliably on these terraces and the Klasična bottling is the region's everyday red rather than a cellar wine.
The entry Rebula of the Kristančič family at Ceglo, whose vineyards straddle the Slovenian and Italian border and have been organic certified since 2004.
Tip: Movia's Lunar Ribolla costs well over forty euros. This bottle is the same family, the same parcels and a quarter of the price.
Pinot Gris from the Ceglo estate the Kristančič family has held since 1820, fermented without added yeast and bottled unfiltered like the rest of the range.
Tip: The estate runs to thirty hectares, twenty-five of them vines, planted along the border strip where Brda meets Collio.
Straight Rebula from the Dobrovo cooperative at under seven euros, 13 percent alcohol, listed with lemon, green apple, cedar and grapefruit over an acacia note.
Tip: The cellar gives it up to three years and pours it at 8 to 10 degrees. It is the cheapest honest way to taste what the grape does on opoka.
The old Brda white that Italy long called Tocai, bottled dry and fruit-scented with an almond note through the finish. Same price as the entry Rebula.
Tip: Sauvignonasse is one of the region's defining whites and hard to find outside it. Buy two, the second one keeps.
The middle Rebula of the cooperative range at 13.5 percent, described by the cellar as elegant and firm-structured with citrus, lemongrass, cedar, quince and a soft vanilla edge.
Tip: Krasno sits a step above Quercus and still comes in under ten euros, which makes it the value pick of the three Rebula tiers.
The cooperative's amber wine, blended from the three Brda whites at 12.5 percent: Rebula twelve months on skins in wood, Sauvignonasse a month in steel, Sivi Pinot three days in amphora.
Tip: Taste this before spending forty euros on a small-estate amber wine. Each variety is fermented separately and the Rebula does the long maceration on its own.