Pinot Gris from the Ceglo estate the Kristančič family has held since 1820, fermented without added yeast and bottled unfiltered like the rest of the range.
Tip: The estate runs to thirty hectares, twenty-five of them vines, planted along the border strip where Brda meets Collio.
Straight Rebula from the Dobrovo cooperative at under seven euros, 13 percent alcohol, listed with lemon, green apple, cedar and grapefruit over an acacia note.
Tip: The cellar gives it up to three years and pours it at 8 to 10 degrees. It is the cheapest honest way to taste what the grape does on opoka.
The old Brda white that Italy long called Tocai, bottled dry and fruit-scented with an almond note through the finish. Same price as the entry Rebula.
Tip: Sauvignonasse is one of the region's defining whites and hard to find outside it. Buy two, the second one keeps.
The middle Rebula of the cooperative range at 13.5 percent, described by the cellar as elegant and firm-structured with citrus, lemongrass, cedar, quince and a soft vanilla edge.
Tip: Krasno sits a step above Quercus and still comes in under ten euros, which makes it the value pick of the three Rebula tiers.
The cooperative's amber wine, blended from the three Brda whites at 12.5 percent: Rebula twelve months on skins in wood, Sauvignonasse a month in steel, Sivi Pinot three days in amphora.
Tip: Taste this before spending forty euros on a small-estate amber wine. Each variety is fermented separately and the Rebula does the long maceration on its own.
Sparkling Rebula from the cellar that first made it in 1962, fresh and fruit-forward, and still under eight euros a bottle.
Tip: The 1962 date matters: Klet Brda has been bottling sparkling Rebula here since before the style was fashionable anywhere.
The Bagueri Rebula is the cooperative's skin-macerated top tier, named for Silverio de Baguer, the Catalan count who owned Dobrovo Castle and planted vines here without tree supports in 1881.
Tip: Still well under twenty-five euros, and the closest a co-op bottle gets to the small-estate amber wines of Ceglo and Medana.