Bodegas La Cana (Jorge Ordonez project) ★ 4.5
Salnes bodega founded by Jorge Ordonez (who first imported Albarino to the US in 1991) to make age-worthy Albarino. Partial barrel-fermented and lees-aged from 1966 plantings; the Suaves Colinas is the prestige tier.
Tip: La Cana Suaves Colinas is the bodega's top wine, made only in select vintages and intended for cellaring. The base La Cana is the practical introduction to Ordonez's vision.