Single-lieu-dit Chardonnay from Pupillin at 16.90 euros. Named for the Grapiot parcel, it is the bottle to take if you want to see what the village's red marls do to a white grape.
Tip: The domaine's Cuvee S orange Savagnin sits on the same shelf at 17 euros. Between them they cover both directions Pupillin has taken since the 1990s.
The cheapest way into Jura Chardonnay. The growers' cellar at Le Vernois lists the 2023 at 10.80 euros, which is below what most Burgundy village wine costs before it leaves the cellar.
Tip: Taste it beside the Tradition and the Savagnin in the same room before you choose. The cellar is a kilometre from Domaine Baud and Hubert Clavelin, so the three make one stop.
The Savagnin and Chardonnay blend the Jura calls Tradition, listed at 13.90 euros for the 2023. The standard house white of the region, and the bottle to try before paying vin jaune money.
Tip: This is the style that divides people. Buy one bottle, drink it with Comte rather than on its own, and decide from there whether the sous voile whites are for you.
Pale, light-bodied Jura red from the village that ties its name to the grape. The cooperative lists the 2023 at 11.10 euros, which makes it the cheapest serious Ploussard you will find at source.
Tip: Serve it cool. The barrel-aged Plouss'Art sits beside it at 13.90 euros if you want to see what oak does to the same fruit.
Trousseau is the darker and firmer of the two Jura reds, and the Pupillin cooperative lists the 2023 at 12.60 euros. A straightforward introduction before you pay Montigny-les-Arsures prices for the same grape.
Tip: The oak-aged Trouss'oh is 13.90 euros on the same list. Buy both and taste them side by side: the gap between them is the clearest lesson in Jura oak you can get for 27 euros.
Savagnin under 20 euros, listed at 17.70 for the 2021. The cooperative also bottles a Chardonnay raised under the veil at 12.20, so you can taste the two sous voile registers without spending much.
Tip: Pupillin sits fifteen minutes up the hill from Arbois and the cellar is on rue du Ploussard. Walk up, taste, and have the bottles shipped rather than carrying them back down.
The Arbois cooperative's Cremant under its Bethanie label, at 14 euros a bottle. Cremant du Jura is made by the traditional method with a minimum nine months on lees and covered 428 hectares in 2023.
Tip: The rose brut is 12 euros on the same list. The cooperative's physical shop has been shut for building work, so order online or buy the label at a caveau in town.