The Arbois cooperative's Cremant under its Bethanie label, at 14 euros a bottle. Cremant du Jura is made by the traditional method with a minimum nine months on lees and covered 428 hectares in 2023.
Tip: The rose brut is 12 euros on the same list. The cooperative's physical shop has been shut for building work, so order online or buy the label at a caveau in town.
Rose Cremant at 12 euros from the cooperative that thirty-one Arbois growers founded in 1906. Rose Cremant du Jura must carry at least half dark or grey grapes, which is what gives it colour and weight.
Tip: This is the local aperitif, not a curiosity. Buy it by the six pack: the price per bottle here is roughly what a single glass costs in Paris.
Straight Chardonnay from the Revermont slopes above Poligny at 15.50 euros for the 2023, from a family that has made wine in the town since 1659.
Tip: Poligny is the Comte town as much as a wine town, so buy this with a wedge of cheese from one of the cellars on the same street and you have lunch.
Organic Poulsard bottled without added sulphur, listed at 18.90 euros for the 2023. The cheapest route into the zero-sulphur end of the Jura without going to the allocation-only natural growers.
Tip: No-sulphur bottles travel badly in a hot car. Buy it if you are driving home the same week, and keep it cold from the cellar door onward.
Organic Savagnin raised ouille, topped up like Burgundy so no veil forms, at 20.50 euros for the 2022. The straight-fruit half of the Jura white argument, from a grape most people only meet under the voile.
Tip: Put it next to the domaine's Savagnin Type, aged the other way at 26.90 euros, and the sous voile against ouille split stops being an abstraction.
The house white of a family domaine on Pupillin's main street, at 13.50 euros. The cellar sells Monday to Saturday and is the easiest walk-in tasting in the village.
Tip: The cellar closes on Sundays and public holidays all year apart from the Easter weekend, so do not plan a Sunday visit to Pupillin around it.
Single-lieu-dit Chardonnay from Pupillin at 16.90 euros. Named for the Grapiot parcel, it is the bottle to take if you want to see what the village's red marls do to a white grape.
Tip: The domaine's Cuvee S orange Savagnin sits on the same shelf at 17 euros. Between them they cover both directions Pupillin has taken since the 1990s.