Nightlife in Oltrarno

Le Volpi e l'Uva ★ 4.8

45 by the glassOltrarno (Florence)

Compact Oltrarno wine bar opened in 1992. Curated small-producer list, French and Italian cheese plates, the unhurried pace older enoteche were built for.

The list: Around 350 bottles on the shelf and 45 by-the-glass pours, almost all from small terroir-driven producers across Italy and France

Tip: Stand at the marble counter and ask Riccardo or Ciro for an off-list small-producer Sangiovese; the staff have been doing this since 1992.

Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina ★ 4.7

25 by the glassOltrarno (Florence)

Wine bar across Piazza Pitti from Palazzo Pitti, focused on small handcrafted Tuscan producers. Dinner runs to 22:30, the bar past 23:00.

The list: Hand-selected small-production Tuscan and Italian bottlings, many available by the glass with cured meats and local cheese

Tip: Aimed squarely at small Tuscan producers; ask the owners for a vertical of a single Brunello or Chianti Classico Riserva.

Rasputin ★ 4.5

Oltrarno (Florence)

Florence's original speakeasy, hidden behind a faint blue light on Borgo Tegolaio. Forty-five seats, candlelight, no standing and a strict reservation policy.

The list: Cocktail-led; a small reserve wine list with Tuscan and Champagne bottles

Tip: No walk-ins; ring the doorbell only after a reservation made through the bar's site, otherwise expect to be turned away.

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