Marco Speri's entry red from Fumane, made in the same deliberately traditional register as the Amarone but without the drying.
Tip: This is the cheapest bottle in a cellar built on long macerations and big Slavonian casks, so it reads older than its price.
Biodynamically farmed Valpolicella from the dry-stone terraces at Castelrotto, the entry bottle from Carlo Venturini and Alessandra Zantedeschi.
Tip: Saseti is the estate's entry bottling. Camporenzo and San Giorgio Alto climb to EUR 20 to 40 and sell out at the cellar.
The Nicolis family's base Valpolicella from San Pietro in Cariano, a everyday Classico from an estate better known for its Ambrosan Amarone.
Tip: The cellar sits on Via Villa Girardi, a short detour from the SP4 as you drive up the valley.
Lorenzo Begali's entry red from the Cengia slopes, fermented without appassimento and built for early drinking rather than cellaring.
Tip: The step up is Siora, the Classico Superiore, at roughly EUR 16 to 24. Taste both side by side at the cellar.
The Coati family's base Valpolicella from the Rugolin hamlet above Valgatara, the cheapest way into a cellar better known for its Amarone.
Tip: The SanGiorgio Classico Superiore sits around EUR 18 to 26 and is the bottling to take home if you have room for one.
Straightforward Valgatara red from the Degani family, sour-cherry driven and made for the table rather than the cellar.
Tip: Degani are on the Via dell'Artigianato at Valgatara, an easy stop between Marano and San Pietro in Cariano.
Cotti family Valpolicella from Fumane, described by the estate as harmonious and savoury with an intense nose, and the opening pour of the First Impressions flight.
Tip: Scriani ship from their own online shop, useful if you are travelling with hand luggage only.
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