A guide to Elbling worth seeking out, by region. We list the estates, how each region expresses the grape, and the bottles that show it best.

Elbling in Mosel

Mosel-Vinothek ★ 4.6

Riesling, Elbling, Muller-Thurgau, SpatburgunderWalk-ins welcomeKues, Bernkastel-Kues

The world's largest vinotheque for Mosel Riesling, set in the vaulted cellars of the St. Nikolaus-Hospital in Kues. Over 100 wines from the whole Mosel region can be tasted under one roof.

Weingut Stein ★ 4.4

MoselRiesling, ElblingFounded 1948Ulrich SteinBullay and St. Aldegund

Ulli Stein's maverick Bullay estate farms steep slate ecologically, making dry, zippy Riesling and rare old-vine Elbling, a natural-leaning Mosel cult.

Tip: Seek out Stein's Elbling and the steep St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Rieslings; the wines are made for the table, not the score sheet.

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