Kuentz-Bas, biodynamic-certified since 2007, turns out the Tradition Riesling as its entry cuvee. Dry, taut, lemon-lime fruit with a chalky finish, a serious biodynamic Riesling for under twenty euros.
Tip: Few biodynamic Alsace Rieslings come in this cheap; Kuentz-Bas Tradition is the entry to a serious house whose Pfersigberg Grand Cru pours far higher.
Gustave Lorentz of Bergheim has farmed its estate vineyards organically and the Reserve Riesling is its dry, dependable entry cuvee. Crisp apple, lemon and a touch of saline mineral from the village's limestone-marl soils.
Tip: Lorentz Reserve is the wine to pair with quiche lorraine or a goat-cheese salad; the Altenberg de Bergheim Grand Cru above the village is the same producer's flagship.
Josmeyer of Wintzenheim is Demeter biodynamic and the Mise du Printemps is its spring-release Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois blend. Fresh, low-key, salty and citrusy, the best biodynamic Pinot Blanc under twenty euros on the wine route.
Tip: Mise du Printemps is released in spring as the name suggests; drink the youngest vintage you can find, ideally as an aperitif on a vineyard terrace.
Muller-Koeberle of Saint-Hippolyte makes a soft, gently off-dry Pinot Gris in the Tradition range. Ripe pear and smoke with light residual sugar, classic Alsace value that holds up to richer fare under twenty euros.
Tip: Off-dry Pinot Gris is the all-purpose Alsace food wine; pair Muller-Koeberle's Tradition with roast pork, charcuterie or munster cheese.
The cooperative's Gewurztraminer Tradition delivers the variety's lychee, rose-petal and warm-spice signature at supermarket money. Off-dry, low-acid and aromatic, an accessible way to taste Alsace's signature aromatic grape under fifteen euros.
Tip: Gewurztraminer is the natural foil to munster cheese and Sichuan or Indian food; serve cool to keep the residual sugar from feeling heavy.
Felix Meyer's small Katzenthal estate is a respected wine-route grower and the village Pinot Blanc is a generous, fleshy take on the variety. Stone fruit, salty finish, a step above supermarket Pinot Blanc.
Tip: Felix Meyer's Kaefferkopf and Wineck-Schlossberg Grand Crus are the bottles to chase, but the basic Pinot Blanc is the gateway under twenty euros.
Vincent Stoeffler of Barr makes a serious, lightly-oaked Pinot Noir Tradition at a friendly price. Red cherry, light grip, a clean cool-climate red, evidence that Alsace's Pinot Noir is now worth taking seriously at every tier.
Tip: Serve a touch cool to lift the red-cherry fruit; the same domaine's Kirchberg de Barr Grand Cru Pinot Noir is the next step up if you fall for the style.