In the glass
Aroma: dried apricot, beeswax, hazelnut, chamomile, saline
Palate: quince, toasted nut, lemon oil, mineral
A barrel-aged white Rioja with cult status: deeply oxidative, nutty and waxy, with piercing acidity that keeps it electric for decades, often compared to white Burgundy and old Hunter Semillon.
What it pairs with
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Bacalao al pil pil
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Salt cod in its emulsified oil meets the wine's waxy texture and saline lift. -
Kokotxas de merluza
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Hake cheeks in pil pil echo the white's nutty, gelatinous richness. -
Roast chicken with herbs
The oxidative white's depth handles roast poultry like an aged Chardonnay. -
Txangurro al horno
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Baked spider crab's sweetness plays against the wine's quince and mineral.
How to serve Vina Tondonia Blanco Reserva
Allow 5 minutes from open to pour.
- Open and pour. Open and pour directly. No decanting required for this style.
- Serve at 8-10°C. Cellar temperature (8-10°C) is the band for this style. Warmer pushes alcohol forward; colder dampens aromatics.
- Glassware. Use a smaller all-purpose white glass: the bowl shape rewards the wine's structure.
- Pair with. Bacalao al pil pil, Kokotxas de merluza, Roast chicken with herbs. Match the wine's structure to the dish's fat and salt.
History
Made from Viura and Malvasia grown on the Tondonia estate and aged for around six years in American oak, the white Tondonia is one of the longest-lived white wines in the world and a benchmark for oxidative-style whites.
- 1947 — Early white Tondonia Reserva vintages
- 2018 — Aged white Rioja gains global cult following among sommeliers
Facts
- Producer
- R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia
- Grapes
- Viura (90%), Malvasia Riojana (10%)
- Classification
- DOCa Rioja
- Oak
- Around 6 years in American oak barrels with biannual racking before bottle ageing
- ABV
- 12.5%
- Price
- EUR 40 to 80 at retail
- Drinking window
- 5 to 30 from vintage
- First vintage
- 1947
Scores
- Tim Atkin 96 (2011 vintage, reviewed 2022)
- Vinous 95 (2010 vintage, reviewed 2021)
Frequently asked about Vina Tondonia Blanco Reserva
What does Vina Tondonia Blanco Reserva taste like?
On the nose, dried apricot, beeswax, hazelnut, chamomile, saline. On the palate, quince, toasted nut, lemon oil, mineral. Structurally medium-bodied, high acidity with a long finish. A barrel-aged white Rioja with cult status: deeply oxidative, nutty and waxy, with piercing acidity that keeps it electric for decades, often compared to white Burgundy and old Hunter Semillon.
When should I drink Vina Tondonia Blanco Reserva?
Drink 5 to 30 from vintage. Young vintages benefit from 30-90 minutes of decanting; mature bottles should be handled carefully for sediment.
What food pairs with Vina Tondonia Blanco Reserva?
Bacalao al pil pil is the canonical pairing. Other strong matches include Kokotxas de merluza and Roast chicken with herbs. Salt cod in its emulsified oil meets the wine's waxy texture and saline lift.
Is Vina Tondonia Blanco Reserva vegan?
No: the producer uses traditional animal-derived fining agents (typically egg whites or isinglass) during clarification, so the wine is not vegan.
What grapes are in Vina Tondonia Blanco Reserva?
The blend is Viura (90%), Malvasia Riojana (10%). The wine is classified as DOCa Rioja.