The western tip of Sicily centred on Marsala combines Phoenician, Greek, Norman and 19th-century English merchant histories with active Marsala production.
Tip: Allow a full day: morning cellar tour at Florio's historic bagli, afternoon Mozia boat crossing, late afternoon at the saltpans at golden hour. Book the Florio tour in advance.
Pantelleria, the volcanic island 70 km from Tunisia and 85 km from Trapani, is the home of Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) and Passito di Pantelleria.
Pours: Passito di Pantelleria DOC, Moscato di Pantelleria DOC, Zibibbo vinified dry
Tip: The island is best in May-June and September-October; August is intensely hot and hotels book out far in advance. Stay at least two nights to visit two or three producers and experience the landscape properly.
The island of Salina in the Aeolian archipelago concentrates the wine production of the seven islands. Its Malvasia delle Lipari DOC is made from the aromatic Malvasia di Lipari grape dried on the terraced volcanic slopes. The Hauner family began bottling on Salina in 1963. Combine the ferry crossing with caper-brined swordfish carpaccio at one of Salina's seafront restaurants.
Pours: Malvasia delle Lipari DOC passito, Malvasia delle Lipari DOC naturale, local Zibibbo vinifications
Tip: The Hauner estate at Santa Marina offers visits by appointment; book ahead as the family farm is small and visitor slots are limited. The naturale dry Malvasia is the wine to seek; it rarely leaves the island.
Palermo is the urban anchor of Sicilian wine culture. The Vucciria and Ballaro market areas contain historic enoteche pouring the island's range by the glass.
Pours: Sicilia DOC whites from Camporeale, Nero d'Avola Sicilia DOC, Marsala Superiore DOC by-the-glass
Tip: Combine a morning Palermo market walk (Mercato di Ballaro for street food and local wine pours) with an afternoon Monreale cathedral visit and return for aperitivo at an Ortigia or Quattro Canti enoteca.
The baroque hillside city of Ragusa Ibla and the chocolate capital of Modica anchor the south-east corner of Sicily where Sicily's only DOCG wine is produced.
Pours: Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG, Frappato Sicilia DOC
Tip: The Modica chocolate tradition is protected by a geographic indication; pick up a bar from Antica Dolceria Bonajuto on Corso Umberto to pair with a Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico later. The bittersweet cinnamon version complements Frappato's tart cherry notes.
The Tyrrhenian coast between Palermo and Cefalu is flanked by the Madonie mountains where the Contea di Sclafani DOC appellation produces whites from Catarratto and Grillo at altitude.
Pours: Sicilia DOC white from Catarratto, Contea di Sclafani DOC, Tenuta Castellaccia Perricone
Tip: The Contea di Sclafani DOC is a small inland Sicilian appellation in the Madonie range; tasting whites from this altitude alongside the coast gives a clear contrast to the flat-vineyard Sicilia DOC style.
The north face of Etna along the SP120 from Randazzo through Solicchiata and Castiglione di Sicilia is a dense Sicilian wine-tourism corridor with over 100 producers within 30 km.
Pours: Etna Rosso DOC contrada, Etna Bianco DOC Carricante, Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Milo
Tip: Drive the SP120 from Randazzo to Linguaglossa, stopping at at least two producers: the route takes you past Cornelissen, Passopisaro, Terre Nere and Benanti's Caselle estate within 30 km.