A guide to Pinot Gris worth seeking out, by region. We list the estates, how each region expresses the grape, and the bottles that show it best.

Pinot Gris in Burgundy

Maison Louis Latour ★ 4.4

Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Village (Cote de Beaune, AOC)Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris48 haFounded 1797Latour familyWinemaker Christophe DeolaCote de Beaune

Beaune family house in business since 1797, the largest holder of Corton-Charlemagne, with a reputation built on grand-cru whites of the Cote de Beaune.

Tasting: Tastings and tours by appointment; the house is the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne grand cru vines.

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Pinot Gris in Champagne

Champagne Drappier ★ 4.6

AOC ChampagnePinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot GrisFounded 1808Drappier familyCote des Bar

Family house at Urville in the Cote des Bar, founded 1808, Pinot-led and a custodian of Champagne's rare grapes through its four-grape Quattuor.

Tasting: Family estate in the Cote des Bar; visits and tastings, see the house for hours.

Signature wines: drappier-carte-dor-brut, drappier-quattuor

Tip: Quattuor blends the rare Arbane, Petit Meslier and Blanc Vrai with Chardonnay.

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