Barbera d'Alba from the historic Marchesi di Barolo house, partly aged in oak. Dark cherry, a touch of spice and a rounder, food-friendly body than the steel-only Asti versions.
Tip: From the estate at the heart of dry Barolo's invention; Ruvei is its accessible everyday red with a little oak polish.
Barbera from three Asti parcels, aged about a year between steel, barrique and large oak. Ruby-red, sour-cherry fruit, soft tannin and bright acidity make it the benchmark everyday Piedmont red.
Tip: Serve it lightly chilled with a tomato-sauce pasta; the acidity cuts the sauce better than any Nebbiolo would.
Certified-organic Dolcetto from the highest hamlet of Barolo. Inky purple, plummy and faintly almond-bitter on the finish, it is the textbook fruity, low-acid Piedmont weeknight red.
Tip: Drink it within two or three years of the vintage while the purple fruit is still vivid; Dolcetto is not a keeper.
Declassified young-vine Barbaresco fruit from the grower cooperative. A baby Barbaresco of rose, red cherry and fine tannin, it is the cheapest honest way into the Nebbiolo grape.
Tip: It is the best-value Nebbiolo in the Langhe; buy a case to drink while your real Barbaresco rests in the cellar.
Classic Alba Dolcetto from the long-established Pio Cesare house. Deep violet, juicy black-cherry fruit and a clean, faintly bitter close, made for the everyday table.
Tip: A house that built its name on Barolo also makes one of Alba's most reliable cheap Dolcetto; safe to buy unseen.
Coppo's entry Barbera from Canelli, all stainless steel to keep the fruit forward. Bright red-berry juice, mouth-watering acidity and no oak: a true under-fifteen-euro find.
Tip: From the Coppo house famous for its UNESCO underground cellars; L'Avvocata is the wine to pour by the carafe.
Family-run Roero Arneis from Canale, the variety's heartland. White peach, almond and chamomile with a saline lift, it is Piedmont's best-value indigenous white.
Tip: Arneis loses its delicacy with age; pick the youngest vintage and serve it cold with fritto misto or raw fish.