A guide to Cortese worth seeking out, by region. We list the estates, how each region expresses the grape, and the bottles that show it best.

Cortese in Piedmont

Pio Cesare ★ 4.7

Barolo DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG and Langhe DOCNebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Cortese, Arneis, ChardonnayFounded 1881Pio Boffa family (Federica Rosy Boffa)Langhe DOC

Founded in 1881 and still cellaring within Alba's ancient Roman walls, Pio Cesare is one of Piedmont's historic houses, making both classic blended Barolo and the single-vineyard Ornato.

Tasting: Tours and tastings by appointment, Monday to Saturday morning, in the historic Alba cellars inside the Roman walls.

Signature wines: barolo-ornato, barolo-pio-cesare, barbaresco-il-bricco

Marchesi di Barolo ★ 4.5

Barolo DOCG and Langhe DOCNebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Moscato Bianco, CorteseFounded 1807Abbona familyBarolo DOCG

Rooted in the cellars where the modern Barolo style was shaped under the Falletti marquises, Marchesi di Barolo is the village's most historic house, now run by the Abbona family.

Tasting: Guided tours of the historic cellars and tastings daily, by reservation, opposite the castle of Barolo.

Signature wines: barolo-cannubi-marchesi, barolo-sarmassa, barolo-del-comune-di-barolo

Michele Chiarlo ★ 4.5

Barbera d'Asti DOCG, Nizza DOCG, Barolo DOCG and Gavi DOCGBarbera, Nebbiolo, Moscato Bianco, CorteseFounded 1956Chiarlo family (Stefano and Alberto Chiarlo)Barbera d'Asti DOCG

Founded in 1956, Michele Chiarlo is one of Monferrato's leading houses, with holdings across Barbera d'Asti, Nizza, Gavi and Barolo and the La Court vineyard art park near Asti.

Tasting: Tastings at the Calamandrana cellar and the open-air Art Park La Court; visits by reservation.

Signature wines: barbera-dasti-la-court, nizza-cipressi, barolo-cerequio

Coppo ★ 4.5

Barbera d'Asti DOCG, Nizza DOCG, Asti DOCG and Alta Langa DOCGBarbera, Moscato Bianco, Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, CorteseFounded 1892Coppo familyCanelli DOCG

Founded in Canelli in 1892, Coppo is a Monferrato house known for the barrique-aged Pomorosso Barbera and traditional-method sparkling wines, cellaring in UNESCO-listed tufa caves.

Tasting: Guided visits and tastings in the UNESCO-listed underground cathedral cellars beneath Canelli.

Signature wines: pomorosso-barbera-dasti, coppo-riserva-spumante, moncalvina-moscato-dasti

La Scolca ★ 4.5

Gavi DOCG and Alta Langa DOCGCorteseFounded 1919Soldati familyGavi DOCG

The Soldati family pioneered premium Gavi at Rovereto, trademarking Gavi dei Gavi in 1969. La Scolca makes age-worthy 100% Cortese whites and traditional-method sparkling wines.

Tasting: Tastings and visits by appointment at the Rovereto di Gavi estate, with Villa Scolca for events.

Signature wines: gavi-dei-gavi-etichetta-nera, gavi-valentino, soldati-la-scolca-brut-millesimato

La Scolca Gavi dei Gavi White Label entry, Gavi DOCG ★ 4.1

Gavi DOCGCorteseEUR 16-22 retail

Cortese from the historic Gavi house at Rovereto. Crisp green-apple and citrus with a flinty, mineral finish, the dry white that put Gavi on the map at an everyday price for its black-label sibling's cellar.

Tip: The basic Gavi from this estate over-delivers; reserve the famous black-label Gavi dei Gavi for a splurge.

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Cortese in Veneto

Cavalchina ★ 4.4

Bianco di Custoza DOCTrebbiano Toscano, Garganega, Cortese, Bianca Fernanda, Riesling ItalicoFounded 1974Piona familyWinemaker Piona familyCustoza

The Piona family estate at Sommacampagna is one of the benchmarks for Bianco di Custoza DOC, producing a crisp blend of Trebbiano, Garganega and Cortese on the morainic hills south of Lake Garda.

Tasting: Tasting visits at the Sommacampagna estate by appointment.

Signature wines: cavalchina-bianco-di-custoza, cavalchina-amedeo

Gorgo ★ 4.4

Bianco di Custoza DOCGarganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Cortese, MerlotFounded 1966Custoza

A family estate on the glacial morainic amphitheater south of Lake Garda at Custoza. The estate specialises in crisp, food-friendly Bianco di Custoza DOC from Garganega, Trebbiano and Cortese.

Tasting: Tasting visits at the morainic estate in Custoza by appointment.

Signature wines: gorgo-bianco-di-custoza, gorgo-merlot-garda

Corte Gardoni ★ 4.4

Bianco di Custoza DOCGarganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Cortese, Cabernet Sauvignon, MerlotFounded 1980Piccoli familyWinemaker Piccoli familyCustoza

The Piccoli family estate at Valeggio sul Mincio on the morainic rim of Lake Garda produces a fresh, saline Bianco di Custoza DOC alongside an interesting Garda Cabernet from south-shore hillside vineyards.

Tasting: Tasting visits at the Valeggio sul Mincio estate; bookable online.

Signature wines: corte-gardoni-bianco-di-custoza, corte-gardoni-le-fontane-garda-cabernet

Cantina di Custoza ★ 4.1

Bianco di Custoza DOCGarganega, Trebbiano Toscano, CorteseFounded 1958Cooperative of local growersWinemaker Cooperative winemaking teamCustoza

The Custoza cooperative founded in 1958 is the largest producer in the Bianco di Custoza DOC appellation. High-volume accessible wines from morainic soils at good prices; the walk-in shop is a tourist draw on the Garda circuit.

Tasting: Public shop and tasting room at Custoza; walk-in welcome.

Signature wines: cantina-custoza-bianco-di-custoza

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