La Mercerie ★ 4.5
A Cours Saint-Louis restaurant in a former haberdashery, with chef Harry Cummins's tasting menus and sommelier Laura Vidal's natural-wine pours.
The list: A former-haberdashery restaurant from chef Harry Cummins and Montreal-born sommelier Laura Vidal of Paris Popup, pouring Vidal's natural-wine picks with a five-course Cummins dinner
Tip: Book the five-course dinner with the wine flight; the Friday-to-Sunday three-course lunch is the value option for the same kitchen and cellar.