Weingut Stein ★ 4.4
Ulli Stein's maverick Bullay estate farms steep slate ecologically, making dry, zippy Riesling and rare old-vine Elbling, a natural-leaning Mosel cult.
Tip: Seek out Stein's Elbling and the steep St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Rieslings; the wines are made for the table, not the score sheet.