Hidden Gems in Anjou / Vin de France

Olivier Cousin ★ 4.6

Vin de France (formerly Anjou AOC)Cabernet Franc, Grolleau, Chenin BlancFounded 1986Biodynamic PracticingORGANIC CERTIFIEDAnjou / Vin de France

Anjou natural-wine pioneer working horse-ploughed Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc with no cellar additions. Cult name in the no-sulphur natural-wine world.

Tip: Cousin's Pur Breton (100 percent Cabernet Franc) is the signature wine. Direct contact for cellar-door visits is by horse-drawn appointment, which is itself the experience.

Dietary in Anjou / Vin de France

Olivier Cousin ★ 4.6

Biodynamic PracticingORGANIC CERTIFIEDNaturalAnjou / Vin de France

Olivier Cousin works his Martigne-Briand Cabernet Franc and Grolleau vineyards with horse-drawn ploughs, ferments without additions and bottles without sulphur. After the 2010 INAO court case in which he refused the Vin de France label for his de-classified Anjou Cabernet Franc, Cousin became a reference figure in French natural-wine circles (covered in Le Monde, La Revue du Vin de France).

Tip: Cousin's wines are mainly distributed through specialist cavistes worldwide. Cellar visits are unpredictable; direct email contact for an appointment is the only realistic route.

Olivier Cousin (no-sulphur-added bottlings) ★ 4.4

Biodynamic PracticingORGANIC CERTIFIEDNaturalAnjou / Vin de France

Olivier Cousin's Anjou Cabernet Franc and Grolleau bottlings are made without sulphur additions at any stage of vinification or bottling. The Pur Breton (100 percent Cabernet Franc) is the signature no-sulphur cuvee. The wines sit at the zero-zero end of the Loire's natural-wine spectrum and are sold almost entirely through specialist natural-wine cavistes.

Tip: No-sulphur wines need temperature-controlled storage from cellar to glass. Buy from a specialist caviste who manages the cold chain, and drink within a few years of release.

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