A guide to Aligote worth seeking out, by region. We list the estates, how each region expresses the grape, and the bottles that show it best.

Aligote in Burgundy

Domaine Ponsot ★ 4.6

Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Village (Cote de Nuits, AOC)Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, AligoteFounded 1872Ponsot familyWinemaker Rose-Marie PonsotCote de Nuits

Morey-Saint-Denis domaine famed for the monopole Clos de la Roche Cuvee Vieilles Vignes and its long-lived, low-sulphur reds.

Tasting: Visits and tastings at the Gilly-les-Citeaux cellar by appointment.

Domaine Coche-Dury ★ 4.8

Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Village (Cote de Beaune, AOC)Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Aligote11 haFounded 1940Coche familyWinemaker Raphael CocheMeursault

Cult Meursault domaine under Raphael Coche, famed for flinty, reductive Meursault and a tiny production of Corton-Charlemagne grand cru.

Tasting: No public tastings; among the most allocation-tight and collected whites in Meursault.

Domaine de Montille ★ 4.6

Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Village (Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits, AOC)Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Aligote37 haFounded 1730de Montille familyWinemaker Brian SieveBiodynamic PracticingECOCERTVolnay and Pommard

Volnay-based biodynamic domaine known for structured, classically built Volnay and Pommard premier crus and a growing range of whites.

Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment at the Volnay estate; biodynamic farming.

Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils ★ 4.2

Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Village (Cote de Beaune, AOC)Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, AligoteFounded 1860Rollin familyWinemaker Simon RollinCote de Beaune

Family domaine in Pernand-Vergelesses making well-priced Corton-Charlemagne and Pernand whites alongside Aloxe-Corton and Savigny reds.

Tasting: Visits and tastings by appointment at the Pernand-Vergelesses cellar.

Domaines Devillard ★ 4.3

Premier Cru and Village (Cote Chalonnaise and Cote de Nuits, AOC)Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, AligoteFounded 1934Devillard familyWinemaker Amaury DevillardCote Chalonnaise

Cote Chalonnaise family group centred on Chateau de Chamirey in Mercurey, with Mercurey and Rully premier crus and a Nuits-Saint-Georges estate.

Tasting: Tastings at Chateau de Chamirey in Mercurey by appointment; the group also owns Domaine des Perdrix in Nuits.

Marche aux Vins ★ 4.5

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Aligote, GamayWalk-ins welcomeBeaune town centre

Burgundy's best-known walk-in tasting cellar, set in the 15th-century Church of the Cordeliers opposite the Hospices de Beaune. Flights run from regional appellations up to Grand Cru in the vaulted cellars.

Sensation Vin ★ 4.6

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, AligoteAppointment onlyBeaune town centre

Dedicated Burgundy tasting room near the Hospices, founded 2006, running around 450 guided classes a year in French and English with blind-tasting and Grand Cru flights.

Domaine Sylvain Pataille ★ 4.6

Marsannay AOCPinot Noir, Aligote, ChardonnayFounded 1999Sylvain PatailleECOCERTMarsannay

Marsannay reference producer farming organically since 2008. Sylvain Pataille's single-parcel Aligote bottlings have made the overlooked grape a collector's interest.

Tip: Pataille's lieu-dit Aligotes (Le Clou, Champ Foret) are the wines insiders chase; the Marsannay reds and rose round out a village few visitors think to seek.

Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial ★ 4.6

Rully Premier CruPinot Noir, Chardonnay, AligoteFounded 1994Vincent and Celine DureuilRully

Rully's reference domaine, run by Vincent and Celine Dureuil since 1994. Old-vine Chardonnay with Cote d'Or depth at Cote Chalonnaise prices.

Tip: Rully is the Cote Chalonnaise's best-kept white-wine secret; Dureuil-Janthial's Vieilles Vignes is the bottle that explains why insiders rate the village.

Domaine A. et P. de Villaine ★ 4.6

Bouzeron AOCAligote, Chardonnay, Pinot NoirFounded 1971Aubert and Pamela de VillaineECOCERTBouzeron

Aubert de Villaine's organic Bouzeron estate, where the co-director of Romanee-Conti makes the benchmark Aligote from the grape's own appellation.

Tip: Few visitors realise the man behind Romanee-Conti pours one of Burgundy's best-value whites here; the Bouzeron and the Cote Chalonnaise reds reward a detour.

Domaine A. et P. de Villaine Bouzeron ★ 4.4

Bouzeron AOCAligoteEUR 22-25 retail

The reference Aligote from the only village appellation reserved for the grape, farmed organically by Aubert de Villaine of Romanee-Conti. Citrus, white-flower and a saline cut, proof Aligote is no afterthought, just under twenty-five euros.

Tip: Bouzeron is the one place Aligote earns its own AOC; this is the bottle that converts sceptics. A classic match for snails or a gougeres aperitif.

Bouchard Pere et Fils Bourgogne Aligote ★ 3.9

Bourgogne Aligote AOCAligoteEUR 13-17 retail

A bracing, high-acid Aligote from one of Beaune's historic houses. Lemon, green apple and a mineral snap, the original base of a kir and a sharp aperitif white for well under twenty euros.

Tip: Aligote is the traditional base for kir with creme de cassis; on its own it shines with shellfish and fresh cheese.

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